Princess seams on an abaya: what they are and do

Two kinds of princess seam

Both kinds end at the hem. The difference is where they begin at the top, and that changes how much shaping each can do.

• Shoulder princess seam: starts at the middle of the shoulder and runs straight down over the bust. It gives a long, unbroken vertical line, which makes the figure look taller and suits coat-style and structured abayas.
• Armhole princess seam: starts in the curve of the armhole and sweeps across to the bust. It is a little softer, easier to fit on a larger bust, and the seam is partly hidden by the arm.

How they shape without clinging

Each seam is a place where the tailor can take in or let out a small amount, so a princess-cut abaya can be adjusted at several points around the body rather than only at the sides. That spreads the shaping evenly. The abaya skims the bust, comes in slightly at the waist and then flares gently through the panels to the hem, which is why princess seams are common on A-line abayas and coat-style abayas.

With generous ease, the result is a modest, flowing abaya that still looks tailored. With little ease, it becomes fitted, so say clearly how loose you want it.

Princess seams, darts or plain side seams

A plain abaya with only side seams has no built-in shaping; it relies on its width and drape. Darts are short folds stitched at the bust or waist that add shape in one place, and they suit a simple fitted bodice but can look abrupt on a long flowing garment. Princess seams do the same job as darts but spread it over the full length, giving a smoother line and more room to add flare at the hem.

The trade-off is more seams to cut, match and press, and a pattern that is interrupted by them. A plain side-seam abaya is simpler and lets a bold print or woven pattern run uninterrupted.

What princess seams need from fabric and measurements

They work best in fabric with some body: medium-weight crepe, twill, suiting-type polyester or a heavier cotton. Very sheer fabrics show the seam allowances through the cloth, and stretchy jersey loses the crisp line. Large prints and woven patterns such as jacquard are broken up by the seams; our jacquard abaya guide explains why that matters.

Shaping over the bust needs accurate measurements. Alongside the usual bust, waist and hip, the bust point height (from the shoulder to the fullest point of the bust) helps place the curve correctly. Our guide on how to measure for an abaya covers the rest.

We make abayas to measure. Ask for princess seams in Send Your Design, with a photo if you have one, and we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design in the written quote.