Velvet abaya: warmth, weight and when to wear it

Weight on the shoulders

An abaya hangs entirely from the shoulders, and velvet is a pile fabric: a woven base with short fibres standing up from it, which makes it thicker and heavier than a flat weave. Over floor length, with generous width, that adds up. Lighter velvets made with fine polyester or a silk and viscose blend drape far better for a full abaya than a thick cotton velvet. If the shoulders slip or the neck drags, the weight is usually the reason.

Pile direction and how it is cut

Run your hand over velvet and it feels smooth one way and rough the other. That direction is the pile, and it changes the colour: with the pile brushing up, velvet looks darker and richer; with it brushing down, it looks lighter and shinier and feels smoother. Every piece of an abaya has to be cut with the pile running the same way, or panels look like two different shades. That uses more fabric than a flat cloth, so expect a larger quantity in a Stitching Only order.

• Cuts that suit it: straight, A-line and coat-style shapes with few seams and little gathering.
• Cuts to avoid: heavy gathers, deep pleats and very wide butterfly shapes, which add bulk and weight at the seams.
• Lining: a smooth lining helps the abaya slide on over clothes, since the back of velvet can grip, and it keeps the shape. Choose a light one to save weight.
• As a trim: velvet cuffs, a collar, front bands or a yoke on a crepe or wool-feel abaya give the look for much less weight.

Crushing, pressing and storing

Velvet pile flattens under pressure and heat, leaving shiny marks. Sitting for a long time, tight packing and an iron pressed straight onto the face are the usual causes. Hang a velvet abaya with space around it on a broad hanger, and lift creases with steam held a little away from the fabric, or by hanging it in a steamy bathroom, rather than ironing. Our guide to pressing and storing abayas has more detail. Many velvets need dry cleaning, so always follow the care label and test any method on a hidden area first.

When to wear it, and how to order

A velvet abaya comes into its own on cold evenings, at winter weddings and dinners and for Eid when it falls in winter. Our article on velvet outfits for winter weddings shows how guests wear the fabric, and the winter abayas guide compares it with other warm options.

We make abayas to measure in fabric we supply or in your own. Tell us whether you want velvet throughout or as a trim, and send a photo of the style through the quote form. With your own velvet, we confirm the quantity before you post it, because of the pile direction.