Viscose, modal and lyocell: the difference

Viscose

Viscose is the oldest of the three. Wood pulp is treated with chemicals to make a thick solution, which is pushed through fine holes into a bath where it sets as fibre. In the USA the same fibre is usually called rayon, and the soft cloth sold in Pakistan as staple is generally spun viscose.

• Feel: soft and cool, with a fluid drape and rich colour.
• Strength: noticeably weaker when wet, so it needs gentle washing.
• Shrinkage: can shrink in the first wash, sometimes by a fair amount.
• Creasing: creases easily and keeps the marks.

Modal

Modal comes from a modified version of the viscose process that gives a stronger fibre with a more ordered structure. It is often made from beech pulp and is familiar from soft T-shirts and nightwear.

• Feel: very soft and smooth, often softer than cotton, and it stays soft wash after wash.
• Strength: keeps much more of its strength when wet than viscose does.
• Shrinkage: lower, and it holds its shape better.
• Drape: fluid, a little lighter in the hand than viscose.

Lyocell

Lyocell dissolves cellulose directly in a solvent that is recovered and reused, instead of reacting it with chemicals first. The fibre it produces is strong and smooth.

• Strength: the strongest of the three, wet or dry.
• Shrinkage: low, so the cloth stays stable through washing.
• Feel: cool and smooth, slightly weightier, with a soft drape.
• Peach effect: rubbing can split the surface into tiny fibrils. Some mills do this on purpose for a suede-like touch, but it can also show as a faint frosting where the fabric rubs.

Reading the words on a label

Brand names for these fibres often appear on swing tags, but the generic fibre name on the care label is what tells you how the fabric will behave.

• Viscose or rayon: expect lovely drape, gentle washing and some shrinkage.
• Modal: softer, stronger and steadier, good for pieces washed often.
• Lyocell: the most stable, used for smart shirts and trousers as well as casual wear.
• Bamboo viscose: viscose made from bamboo pulp, which behaves like viscose.
• Cupro: a related regenerated fibre made from cotton linters; see our article on bemberg chiffon.
• Blends: small amounts of polyester or elastane change behaviour, so read the percentages.

Choosing for your outfit

For a flowing summer kurta that will be washed gently, viscose is a fine choice. For something worn and washed often, modal or lyocell keeps its size and softness better. For wide trousers or a dress that should hold a clean line, lyocell’s weight helps. Whatever the fibre, test-wash a small piece if shrinkage matters, and see our guide to washing machine settings for kurtas for gentle cycles.

With Fabric + Stitching, tell us how you will wear and wash the piece and we propose a fabric, agreed with you in the written quote before cutting. Ask in a quote request.