What is crepe fabric? Suits, trousers and drape

How the pebbly texture is made

The classic method is twist. Yarns are spun with far more twist than usual, some clockwise and some anticlockwise, and woven in alternating groups. When the cloth is wetted in finishing, the over-twisted yarns try to untwist and draw back on themselves, and the surface pulls up into a fine grain. A similar look can be produced with an irregular weave, or by pressing or chemically treating a plain fabric, which is how many lower-priced crepes are made.

Twist is also why crepe has a slight springiness and a dry, cool feel between the fingers, and why it frays readily where it is cut.

Crepe for kameez and suits

In a kameez, crepe gives a smooth, fluid line. It falls straight from the shoulder and moves with a slow swing, so it suits straight and A-line cuts, long shirts and co-ord sets. Mid and deep colours are normally opaque enough to wear unlined. Pale shades in thin crepe are worth holding to a window first. Our article on how fabric changes fit and drape shows why the same pattern looks different in crepe and in cotton.

• Structure: crepe is soft, so collars, plackets and cuffs need interfacing to hold a crisp edge.
• Hems: curved and flared hems can drop unevenly as the cloth relaxes on the hanger, so they are levelled after the garment has hung.
• Seams: cut edges fray and need neat finishing.
• Decoration: the matt surface shows prints and embroidery well, though heavy embroidery can drag a thin crepe.

Is crepe good for trousers?

Yes. In a medium or heavy weight it is one of the easier fabrics for trousers. It hangs straight, does not cling to the leg and stays opaque, and polyester crepe resists creasing behind the knee and across the lap. That makes it a natural match for straight trousers, culottes and wide palazzos, where the weight of the cloth gives a clean fall.

Two cautions. Thin crepe shows every line beneath it, so pale trousers need a lining or a heavier cloth. And narrow cuts such as cigarette pants put strain on the seams of a loosely woven crepe, so they call for a firmer crepe or one with a little stretch. Viscose crepe can also bag at the knee and seat with wear, where polyester crepe springs back.

Summer or winter?

Neither by nature. The season depends on fibre and weight. For abayas specifically, our crepe abaya guide compares the weights.

• Polyester crepe: absorbs very little moisture, so it feels warm outdoors in humid heat but comfortable indoors, in air-conditioning and through the cooler months.
• Viscose crepe: absorbs moisture and feels cooler, so it is the easier one in warm weather, though it creases more and can shrink.
• Silk crepe: light and comfortable across seasons, but delicate to look after.
• Wool crepe: warm and springy, for cold weather.

Choosing and ordering crepe

Fabric names in shops are loose, and a place name or trade name added in front of crepe is a seller’s label for a particular finish, not a fixed standard. Describe the weight, the colour and how matt you want it instead. With Fabric + Stitching, we propose a fabric from that description and agree it with you before cutting. If you are unsure whether you want crepe or its sheer relative, read crepe vs georgette first, then ask for a quote.