What is jamawar fabric?

Where it comes from

The name is usually explained as jama, a robe, and war, a yard or length: a cloth sold by the length to be made into a robe. The original jamawars were Kashmiri shawls of fine wool, patterned all over with curving buta motifs, the shape the West later called paisley. Each colour was worked in by hand with its own small bobbin, so a single piece could occupy its weavers for a very long time, and the cloth was worn at the Mughal court and by those who could afford it.

That history explains the look. Even in a modern machine-made jamawar, the pattern covers the whole surface, the motifs interlock closely and several colours appear together, in the way of a shawl.

How present-day jamawar is made

Modern jamawar is a jacquard: a loom lifts individual threads to build the pattern as the cloth is woven. Extra coloured threads are carried across the back wherever they are not needed on the face, so the reverse shows loose floats and a blurred negative of the design. That is the quickest way to tell jamawar from a print.

• Fibre: pure silk jamawar exists and is costly. Most suit jamawar is polyester, viscose or a blend, and the label, where there is one, says which.
• Weight and body: firm and fairly heavy, with little drape.
• Surface: a low sheen, sometimes with gold or silver yarn in the motifs.
• Reverse: floats that can catch on toes, rings and rough skin.

Jamawar, banarsi and plain jacquard

All three are woven-pattern fabrics, and sellers do use the names loosely, sometimes together. The traditional differences are these. Put simply, jacquard is the method, and jamawar and banarsi are two famous styles made with it.

• Jamawar: all-over, closely packed paisleys and florals in several colours, descended from wool shawls.
• Banarsi: a brocade in the style of Banaras, where motifs and borders are picked out in metallic thread on a silk ground. Our article on banarsi fabric explains it.
• Plain or self jacquard: a simpler pattern, often in one colour, woven into an everyday cloth such as lawn or cotton. See the jacquard guide.

What jamawar is used for

A little jamawar goes a long way, so it is most often one piece of an outfit, set against plain fabric.

• Trousers: the classic use. Jamawar straight trousers or cigarette pants under a plain kameez make a simple suit look formal.
• Waistcoats and jackets: its firmness holds a tailored shape. See layering a waistcoat or jacket.
• Kameez: in straight, simple cuts with few seams, for formal occasions.
• Details: cuffs, yokes, borders and dupatta edges.

Before it is cut

Jamawar asks for a few decisions in advance. Many patterns run one way, so every piece is cut in the same direction and large motifs are centred, which can take more fabric. The cut edges fray heavily. And because of the floats, trousers and close cuts are more comfortable with a lining; ask for one in your quote, and we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design.

For Stitching Only, send photos of the face, the reverse and the full length, with the label if there is one. We confirm the fabric is suitable and that there is enough of it before you post anything. Ask for a stitching quote here. Most jamawar is dry clean only and is pressed on the reverse at a low heat.