Jacquard suits explained: woven patterns and how to cut them

How jacquard differs from a print

• The pattern shows on both sides: usually as a reverse, or negative, image on the back. A print is usually paler or plain on the reverse.
• Texture: you can often feel the pattern, as raised areas or a change in sheen.
• Floats: in many designs, threads pass over several others to form the pattern. These floats can catch on rings and bag clasps, so treat them gently.
• Weight and body: jacquard is often a little heavier and less drapey than a plain fabric of the same fibre.
• Colour: because the pattern is woven from dyed yarns, it cannot rub off like a surface print, though the yarns can still fade with washing and sunlight.

Which is the right side?

Most jacquards have an obvious face, with a smoother, more defined pattern and a busier back. Some are reversible, and a few designs look better on the reverse, which can make a lovely contrast for cuffs, plackets, a yoke or a trouser hem. If a suit arrives folded with the reverse showing, it is easy to be caught out, so compare both sides in daylight before you decide.

Tell us on the quote form which side you want as the face. If you like both, say so, and we can talk about using the reverse for small details.

Cutting a jacquard kameez

Because the pattern is part of the fabric, where each piece is cut from matters. A tailor planning a jacquard kameez looks at a few things.

• Direction: many jacquards have a one-way pattern, such as flowers that all point up, so every piece must be cut the same way up. This can use more fabric than a design that works in any direction.
• Placement: large motifs look best centred on the front and back and mirrored on the sleeves, rather than cut off at the neckline or sitting awkwardly over the bust.
• Matching: on bold repeats, the pattern is lined up across the centre front and side seams where the fabric allows.
• Fraying: jacquard with long floats can fray and shed at cut edges, so seams are best neatly finished.
• Simple lines: the pattern is the star, so straight and A-line cuts with few seams show it off best. Complicated panelling and deep gathers break it up. Our A-line vs straight guide helps you choose.

Buying and ordering

If you are buying jacquard by the metre, allow a little extra for one-way patterns and large repeats; our fabric quantity guide gives the base figures. In an unstitched suit, the brand has usually allowed for placement, but it is still worth sending photos of each full length so any tight spots are found before cutting.

When you ask for a Stitching Only quote, tell us the fabric is jacquard, which side is the face and whether you want motifs centred. We confirm that the fabric is suitable, how much is needed and how to send it to us in Pakistan before you post anything. Care depends on the fibre, so read the label: many cotton jacquards wash like other cottons, while silk and metallic jacquards are often dry clean only. The unstitched suit stitching page explains the full process.