A-line skirt vs pencil skirt: which suits you?

Over the hips and thighs

An A-line skirt touches the body only at the waist and the top of the hip, then falls away, so it skims fuller hips and thighs without clinging. The amount of flare can be small, for a neat office skirt, or generous, for a swishy summer one.

A pencil skirt follows the hip closely, so it shows your outline more. That suits people who like a fitted look, and it can be very flattering on curves, but only if the skirt has enough room at the high hip and full hip. Too little and it rides up and creases across the front when you sit. Give both hip measurements and the distance from your waist to each, and the pattern can follow your shape rather than a standard curve.

Walking, sitting and stairs

Daily movement is where the two skirts differ most.

• A-line: moves freely at any length; nothing needs adding for walking.
• Knee-length pencil: needs a back vent, a slit or a kick pleat so you can take a normal stride and climb steps. Our pencil skirt guide explains the options.
• Long pencil skirt: the longer the skirt, the longer the slit has to be, because the hem is narrow and further from the knee. A front or side slit is common on a maxi pencil; if you want less leg on show, a slit lined with a contrast panel or a softer, straighter column is an alternative.
• Sitting: an A-line folds softly in the lap; a pencil stretches across the thighs, so ease at the hip matters.

Lining, fabric and length

Pencil skirts are usually lined, which helps them slide over tights or skin and keeps the shape smooth. They want a stable fabric with body: crepe, suiting, ponte, or cotton with a little stretch. A-line skirts are less fussy. Cotton, linen, denim, wool and heavier lawn all hold the flare; lining depends mainly on whether the fabric is sheer.

An A-line works at every length, from just above the knee to the ankle; the maxi skirt guide covers the long version. A pencil skirt is classically knee length, sometimes midi, and a full-length pencil needs the long slit described above.

Choosing and ordering

If you want one easy skirt that goes with tunics, shirts and short kurtis, choose an A-line. If you want a sharp look for work or evenings and like a fitted line, choose a pencil, and take extra care with the hip measurements. Our Western dresses and skirts article lists what to tell us for either.

Skirts are among the Western pieces we make to measure. Send a photo of the shape and length through Send Your Design, and we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design in the written quote. You can start with a photo at any time.