Made-to-measure Western dresses and skirts: what to ask for

Dress shapes

Details change the character of each shape: a tiered skirt, a shirred waist, puff or flutter sleeves, a square or V neckline. A photo shows them better than words, and you can ask about any of them in your quote request. The main shapes are:

• Shift: straight and simple with little waist shaping. Easy and smart.
• A-line: fitted at the bust and widening gently to the hem. Suits almost everyone.
• Fit and flare: fitted to the waist with a fuller skirt below.
• Wrap: crosses over at the front and ties at the waist, so it adjusts as you move.
• Shirt dress: a collar, button front and often a tie belt, practical and smart. See our collar and placket guides.
• Maxi: ankle or floor length, in any of the shapes above, and a popular modest option with sleeves.

Skirts

Tell us where the waistband should sit, at the natural waist or lower on the hip, and whether you want elastic, a zip or buttons.

• A-line: the easiest skirt to wear, at knee, midi or maxi length.
• Pleated: knife or box pleats for movement; crisp fabrics hold pleats best.
• Gathered or tiered: soft and full, lovely in cotton and viscose.
• Pencil: close fitting, usually with a back slit and a lining.
• Wrap: adjustable at the waist and easy to wear.
• Long skirt with a slit: a side or back slit makes walking easier in a narrower midi or maxi.

Measurements and details

Dresses and skirts rely on a few measurements more than a kameez does, because the waist is usually fitted. Take your bust, waist and hips carefully using our size guide, and add these to your notes:

• Shoulder to waist: from the highest point of the shoulder, beside the neck, down to your natural waist, so the waist seam sits in the right place.
• Dress or skirt length: from the shoulder for a dress, or from the waist for a skirt, to where you want the hem.
• Height and shoes: heels change where a midi or maxi falls.
• Fastening: an invisible zip at the side or back suits fitted dresses; buttons, a wrap tie or an elastic waist suit easier shapes.
• Lining: most pencil skirts and fine or pale fabrics need one; our lining guide explains why.
• Pockets: side-seam pockets are easy to add to most dresses and skirts; see our pockets guide.
• Sizes: if you think in UK, EU or US sizes, our size comparison guide helps translate, but your measurements are what count.

How to ask for it

Choose “Western wear” on the stitching quote form, upload reference photos and describe the fabric. If you have a picture of the dress you want, our guide to briefing a tailor with screenshots shows how to make it clear, including which details to take from which photo.

Stretch fabrics such as jersey are cut and sewn differently from woven cotton or linen, so tell us if your fabric stretches and we’ll confirm what is possible in your quote. If you are sending your own fabric, we confirm it is suitable, how much is needed and how to send it to us in Pakistan before you post anything, and we then ship the finished piece to you. If you would rather not source fabric yourself, ask for a Fabric + Stitching quote and we supply the agreed fabric. More on the service is on the custom stitching page.