Embroidery on chiffon and georgette: will it pucker?

Why sheer fabrics pucker

Chiffon and georgette are woven from tightly twisted yarns with space between them. That gives them their movement, and it also means the yarns slide when a needle and thread pull on them. Dense stitching draws the threads of the cloth together, and the fabric round it, which has not been drawn in, ripples. On a firm cotton the weave resists; on chiffon it gives way. Our georgette and chiffon comparison explains how the two fabrics differ.

What keeps the work flat

Five things, all settled before the first stitch.

• Backing: a supporting layer under the fabric during stitching, removed or dissolved afterwards. On sheers, a wash-away type is common because nothing is left to show through.
• Tension: the fabric is held taut and even, in a hoop for machine work or on a large wooden frame for hand work, so it cannot shift under the needle.
• Fine needle and thread: thick thread forces the weave apart and leaves holes.
• Lighter density: outline stitches, small flowers, vines and scattered motifs sit easily. Large solid shapes turn into stiff plates that the soft fabric cannot carry.
• Finishing each motif: threads are not carried from one motif to the next, because they would show through and pull.

Where embroidery sits safely

Placement does as much as technique.

• Hem borders: a border along the daman or the dupatta edge adds weight low down, which helps chiffon hang. Keep it moderate: a very heavy border drags the fabric and strains the shoulder and side seams.
• Necklines: a neckline is backed by a facing or lining, so it is the most stable place for closer work.
• Sleeve ends: light borders work well. Sleeves are often unlined, so the reverse will be visible and will rest on the arm.
• Scattered motifs: small, well-spaced motifs across the body or dupatta keep the fabric fluid.
• Avoid: dense work near the armholes, across areas cut on the slant of the fabric and anywhere the cloth has to stretch as you move.

Lining and care

The body of a chiffon or georgette kameez is normally lined, and the lining does two jobs for the embroidery: it hides the reverse and it takes some of the weight. Our chiffon guide covers lining and stitching the fabric.

Wash embroidered chiffon by hand in cool water without wringing, dry it flat and press it from the reverse on low heat through a cloth. Store heavily worked pieces folded flat, not on a hanger, so the weight of the embroidery does not stretch the fabric.

Asking for it

When we stitch a chiffon or georgette outfit, the delicate level, work on the neckline or sleeves, is the natural match; whether more is possible depends on the fabric and the design. Say where you want the embroidery and how light or close it should look, and send a photo. We confirm what is possible on your fabric and design in the written quote. If you want your own chiffon fabric or dupatta embroidered, send photos first, as our guide to embroidery on your own fabric explains. The custom embroidery page covers both routes, and the quote form is where to begin. Organza behaves differently again; see embroidery on organza.