Fitting tips for curvy and plus-size women

The fit points to get right

• Bust: a fuller bust needs extra room at the front, not just more width all round. Bust darts or princess seams shape the front so the kameez does not pull across the chest or ride up at the front hem.
• Upper arm and armhole: give your upper arm measurement, one of the optional extras on the size guide, so the sleeve is cut to fit rather than guessed. It is often where a kameez feels tightest.
• Shoulders: measure them separately. Many curvy women have narrower shoulders than their bust suggests, and a kameez cut from the bust alone ends up with seams hanging off the shoulder.
• Hips and side slits: a straight kameez needs enough room at the hip for the slits to hang closed when you stand and stay flat when you sit. Starting the slits a little higher can help.
• Tummy: if your waist is your fullest measurement, say so. The kameez can be cut to skim over it with a straight or A-line shape rather than cling.

Cuts and details that work well

• A-line and gently flared kameez: fitted at the bust, skimming the tummy and hips. Our guide to A-line and straight cuts compares them.
• Long straight kameez: with well-placed slits, over slim or straight trousers, it gives a long, clean line.
• V, sweetheart and notched necklines: they open up the upper body, while a high, closed neckline can make a full bust look heavier. See our neckline guide.
• Angrakha and wrap styles: a diagonal line across the body, with ties that adjust.
• Sleeves with a little room: three-quarter or full length, never tight at the elbow.
• Fabric with some body: cambric and cotton skim rather than cling; very soft or shiny fabrics show every line underneath.

Check the fabric quantity first

None of the ideas above are rules. If you love a fitted shape, a well-cut fitted kameez looks far better than a loose one that fits nowhere. Whatever you choose, check the fabric before you cut or buy.

A standard unstitched kameez piece is designed around an average size and height. Larger sizes, longer lengths and fuller sleeves can use more fabric, and a flared kameez more still. It is often enough for a straight kameez, but not always, so if you are supplying your own suit for Stitching Only, send photos of the pieces and the label with your measurements; we confirm the fabric is suitable and sufficient before you post anything. Our fabric quantity guide has typical figures, and our guide to a suit that is short of fabric explains the options, such as contrast sleeves or side panels.

Telling us what you need

On the stitching quote form, give your bust, waist, hip, shoulder and upper arm measurements, and say where ready-made clothes usually let you down: “gapes between buttons”, “tight at the arms”, “rides up at the front”. A kameez that fits well in one place, even if not everywhere, is useful too; tell us which part to follow. If you like a particular amount of room, our guide to ease helps you describe it.

Choose “advise me” for any design choice you are unsure about and we suggest a cut that suits the fabric and your preferences. The unstitched suit stitching page explains how we work with brand suits, and everything is quoted in writing before any cutting.