How to style one kurta five ways

The five ways

Each one needs nothing you are unlikely to own already.

• 1. With its own trousers. The outfit it was made for. Straight or cigarette trousers in the same fabric or a matching colour give a clean two-piece for work and visits.
• 2. With jeans. Straight or slim jeans, sleeves pushed up, trainers or flat sandals. The side slits let the denim show, which is what makes it look like an outfit and not a suit missing its trousers.
• 3. Over a long skirt. A full or A-line maxi skirt under a knee-length kurta gives a long, covered line. The slits matter here too, because they let the skirt swing out instead of being pinned under the hem.
• 4. Belted. A belt at the waist turns a straight kurta into a tunic with shape. Wear it over slim trousers, and expect the hem to rise a little as the fabric blouses above the belt.
• 5. Dressed up. Add a dupatta in a richer fabric, wide trousers such as a palazzo, earrings and khussas or heels. A plain kurta is the quiet part of the outfit, so everything around it can be louder. Our guide to styling a dupatta for every neckline helps with the drape.

The cut details that make a kurta flexible

If you are choosing or ordering a kurta to wear this way, these are the details to get right.

• Length. At or just above the knee: long enough to wear as part of a suit, short enough for jeans and skirts.
• Side slits. Opening to about the hip, so the kurta moves over whatever is underneath. See chaak side slits.
• Cut. A straight kameez with moderate ease belts well and layers well. Very flared shapes are harder to belt and to wear under jackets.
• Neckline. A round neck, a V or a band collar goes with every option above. A very decorative neckline decides the mood for you.
• Sleeves. Three-quarter, or full sleeves loose enough to push up.
• Fabric. Opaque, with some body, in a plain colour or small print. Cambric, linen and khaddar do this better than a sheer lawn that needs a particular slip.

What makes a kurta hard to restyle

Some kurtas are meant to stay in their set. Dense embroidery that matches a dupatta, a bold print cut to line up with its trousers, a floor-skimming length or a sheer fabric each tie the kurta to one outfit. That is no fault, but it helps to know which kind you are ordering. If you want one piece to do five jobs, keep the decoration small and tonal, such as piping, pintucks or a little work at the neckline.

Ordering a kurta with this in mind

You can order a kurta on its own; we accept single pieces, as our page on ordering one outfit explains. Tell us that you plan to wear it several ways, and give the length you want from shoulder to hem, measured on a kurta you already like if you have one. Choose the neckline, sleeves and length through custom stitching and request a quote; the details are confirmed in writing before cutting.