How to wear an oversized shirt without drowning in it

The places an oversized shirt must still fit

Designed oversized shirts are not simply larger sizes. They add width through the body and often drop the shoulder seam, but they keep certain proportions in check. If you size up a regular shirt instead, everything grows at once, which is why it can swamp you.

• The collar. It should sit close to the neck when buttoned, not stand away from it. A gaping collar is the clearest sign a shirt is simply too big.
• Sleeve length. Cuffs should reach the wrist or be meant to roll. Sleeves that cover your hands make the whole shirt look too large.
• Shoulder. A dropped shoulder sitting a little below your own is part of the look. One that hangs halfway to the elbow is not.
• Length. Mid-hip to just below the seat suits most people. Much longer and it becomes a shirt dress or a tunic, which needs different styling.

What to wear with it

The usual principle is volume on one half only. A loose shirt sits best over something closer to the body, so the outline does not become one large block.

If you wear a shirt over trousers for coverage, the tunic and long shirt guide covers lengths that clear the seat, and fusion outfits shows how the same ideas work with kurtas.

• Slim or straight trousers. Cigarette pants or straight jeans keep the lower half neat.
• A pencil or slip skirt. The contrast of a loose top and a narrow skirt looks deliberate.
• Wide-leg trousers. Possible, but tuck the front of the shirt or belt it so the waist shows.
• Leggings. Casual and comfortable, with a shirt long enough to cover the seat.
• As a layer. Worn open over a fitted top or a slip dress, it becomes a light jacket.

Tucks, belts and rolled sleeves

A half-tuck, where only the front is tucked into the waistband, shows where your waist is while keeping the relaxed back. It needs a shirt long enough to stay tucked as you move, usually at least to the full hip. A narrow belt over the shirt does something similar and suits longer shirts best.

Rolling the sleeves to just below the elbow breaks up the length of fabric on the arms and makes the shirt look lighter. Leaving the top button or two open and showing a fine undershirt or a neat neckline helps too. If you prefer to stay covered, keep it buttoned and rely on the half-tuck or belt instead.

Ordering an oversized shirt made to measure

Made to measure, you can choose where the extra room goes. Give your body measurements, then say how much looser than close-fitting you want the chest, waist and hip, and keep the neck and sleeve length to your own measurements. The simplest method is often to lay a shirt you love flat and measure it; measuring clothes that fit you explains how, and ease for dresses, co-ords and trousers gives a sense of how much looseness is how much.

Western tops are part of our custom stitching. Send a photo of the oversized shirt you have in mind with your quote request, and we confirm the fabric, cut and measurements in writing before cutting. A crisp fabric holds a relaxed shape well; a very soft one tends to collapse and look larger than it is.