Fit, measuring and alterations · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read
Why does my kameez hem curl or flip up?
Hem flipping up on a kameez? A narrow or stretched curved hem, light fabric carrying heavy lace, or uneven shrinking in the wash is usually why. What to request.
InspirationWhy hems refuse to lie flat
A kameez hem curls or flips up when the turned-up edge is too narrow or too firm for the fabric, when a curved hem has stretched as it was sewn, or when a light fabric is carrying a heavier lace or border that pulls it out of line. Washing often makes it worse, because the hem, the body and any trim shrink by different amounts.
The good news is that each cause leaves its own clue, so you can usually tell from one look which detail to ask for differently next time.
Curved hems are the trickiest
A straight hem is cut along the grain, so the folded edge lies flat easily. A curved hem, such as a shirt-tail or a rounded gol daman, runs across the threads at a constant change of angle. Parts of it are on the bias and stretch while being folded and sewn. When the folded edge is longer than the line it is sewn onto, it ripples or rolls outwards.
Turning up a deep hem on a tight curve is hard, because the folded part is wider than the place it lands on. That is why curved hems are often finished with a very narrow turn or with a separate shaped facing that matches the curve exactly. Compare that with a simple straight hem, which is far more forgiving.
Light fabric, heavier trim
Lace, a printed border panel or an embroidered strip sewn along the hem of soft lawn or chiffon has its own stiffness. If the trim is firmer than the fabric, the hem tends to follow the trim, and the edge flips forwards or backwards. If the trim was stretched slightly while it was attached, it pulls the hem into a gentle wave. Our pages on hems with lace and on piping and trims show how these finishes are meant to sit.
What changes after a wash
Cotton lawn can shrink a little in its first wash, while many polyester laces and some borders barely move. When the body shrinks and the trim does not, the trim is left slightly too long for its edge and buckles. The thread used for the hem can do the same in reverse, drawing the fabric up into small puckers that make the edge roll.
A spin cycle and a tumble dryer twist hems more than a gentle wash and drying on a hanger. Pressing the hem flat from the wrong side after drying, as described in our guide to ironing and steaming kurtas, helps it settle.
What to ask for on your next kameez
If you are customising one of our designs, add a note in the customise form, or describe it when ordering through our custom stitching service. Useful notes include:
- A straight hem rather than a curved one, if you prefer an edge that stays flat with little effort.
- A shaped facing, rather than a folded turn, on a curved hem, if that is possible on your fabric.
- A lighter lace or border on a fine fabric, or a firmer fabric to carry a heavy one.
- That earlier kameez have flipped after washing, so the hem and trim can be chosen with that in mind.
Common questions
Will pressing stop the curl for good?
Pressing helps for a while, especially on cotton, but if the hem is stretched or the trim is shorter or longer than the edge, the curl comes back after washing. The lasting fix is in how the next hem is made.
Why does only the front hem flip up?
Often because the front is pulled by something the back is not, such as a fuller bust using up front length, or a dupatta resting on it. A hem that lifts at the front only may be a length question rather than a hem finish problem.
