Fit, measuring and alterations · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read
Why do the side seams of my kameez twist round?
Side seams twisting to the front of a kameez usually mean the fabric was cut off grain, often to follow a print. Why washing shows it and what to ask for next time.
InspirationThe short answer: the grain
Side seams that creep round towards the front or back of a kameez almost always mean the panels were cut slightly off grain, so the threads of the fabric are not running straight up and down your body. The fibres try to return to their natural direction as you wear and wash the garment, and they carry the seam with them.
It is rarely about your measurements. A kameez can match every number you sent and still twist if the cloth underneath was skewed before anyone cut it.
What grain means, in plain terms
Woven fabric has two sets of threads: the lengthwise ones, which run parallel to the finished edge (the selvedge), and the crosswise ones, which run from edge to edge. When those two sets meet at a true right angle, the cloth is on grain. A tailor lines the centre of each kameez panel up with the lengthwise threads so the garment hangs straight.
During weaving, dyeing and finishing, cloth is pulled and stretched on machines. Sometimes the crosswise threads end up curving (called bowing) or running at a slant (called skewing). The fabric still looks fine on the roll, but it is no longer square.
Why printed suits twist more often
A print is applied on top of the cloth. If the base fabric was already skewed when it was printed, the pattern and the threads point in slightly different directions. Whoever cuts the kameez then has a choice, and neither option is perfect.
Cutting to the print makes stripes, borders and motifs look level on the body, but the panel sits off grain and may twist after washing. Cutting to the grain keeps the seams straight for life, but the print can look as if it slopes gently downhill. On a busy floral this hardly shows; on a stripe or a straight border along the hem it can be obvious. You can read more about how different prints are made in our guide to block, digital and screen prints.
Why it appears after the first wash
Finishing often sets the fabric in its stretched, slanted state with heat. Water relaxes that setting, the threads move back towards where they want to be, and the seam follows. That is why a kameez can look perfect the day it arrives and twist after its first wash, and why the movement usually settles after a wash or two rather than getting steadily worse.
Twill weaves, soft viscose and some lightweight lawns show it most. Firm, tightly woven cotton such as cambric tends to hold its shape better. Pre-washing the cloth before it is cut lets some of this relaxation happen first; our article on whether to pre-wash fabric covers when that is sensible.
What to tell us on your next order
If you are sending your own suit through Stitching Only, a little information helps us decide how to cut it, and we confirm what is possible on your fabric before anything is cut. Then use the Stitching Only quote form and add your notes.
- Lay the fabric flat and photograph it with a straight edge, such as a table edge, beside the print. If the motifs drift away from the edge, say so.
- Tell us your priority: a level print, or seams that stay put. On a stripe or straight border, it is worth thinking about before you order.
- Mention if a previous kameez from the same brand or fabric twisted after washing.
- If you have already washed the fabric, tell us, because that changes how much it is likely to move afterwards.
Common questions
Can I iron a twisted side seam straight again?
Pressing can pull it back for a day, but the threads return to their own direction the next time the kameez is washed, so the twist comes back. It is a property of the cloth rather than the pressing.
Does plain fabric twist as well?
It can, especially soft twills and loosely woven cloth, but it is less noticeable because there is no print to compare against. You usually only spot it when the side seams start swinging forward on the hips.
Will the twist keep getting worse every wash?
Usually not. Most of the movement happens in the first wash or two, when the finishing relaxes. After that the seam tends to stay where it has settled.
