Embroidery and fancy work · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read

Lace curled or shrunk after washing: what to do

Lace curling after washing can usually be pressed flat with damp pinning and steam. What to do when lace has truly shrunk, and what to ask for next time.

Inspiration

Most curl presses out; real shrinkage does not

Lace that has curled or rippled in the wash can usually be flattened by dampening it, pinning it out to the right shape and letting it dry flat, then pressing it from the back. Lace that has genuinely shrunk shorter than the fabric it is sewn to is a different problem: it keeps pulling the edge into waves, and the lasting fix is to unpick it and sew it back with a little extra length.

Work out which problem you have

Lay the garment flat with the lace edge straight and look closely before you reach for the iron.

The edge rolls over on itself. Common with narrow cotton or crocheted lace. The lace is the right length but has lost its flatness. Pressing usually solves it.
Soft waves along the lace, fabric flat. The lace has relaxed unevenly. Damp pinning and drying flat normally cures it.
The hem or cuff gathers into waves where the lace is attached. The lace is now shorter than the edge it is sewn to. This is shrinkage, and pressing gives only a temporary improvement.
Small puckers right along the stitching line only. The sewing thread may have shrunk rather than the lace. A careful press helps; if it returns, the seam needs resewing.

Flattening lace at home

Check the care label and what the lace is made of. Cotton lace takes a warm iron; polyester and nylon lace need a cool one, because they can glaze or melt. Test on a hidden end first.

Dampen the lace evenly with a spray of clean water or by laying a wrung-out cloth over it.
Place it face down on a folded towel, so the raised pattern is cushioned rather than crushed.
Ease it gently to its full length and shape, then pin the edge every few centimetres with rustproof pins.
Hold the iron just above it and steam, or press lightly through a pressing cloth. Lift and lower; do not slide.
Leave it pinned until it is completely dry and cool, then remove the pins. A light spray starch on cotton lace helps it keep the shape.

When the lace has really shrunk

If the edge still gathers after pressing, the lace needs to be unpicked and attached again with enough length to sit flat, or replaced with a lace that will not shrink. A tailor near you can do this. We do not repair or alter existing clothes, so this is one to take to someone close by.

On a gathered or flared edge, a slight wave can look intentional, so it is worth wearing the piece once before deciding.

Stopping it next time

Wash lace-trimmed outfits cool and gently, inside out in a mesh bag, and dry them flat or hung with the hem straight rather than in a tumble dryer. Our washing guide for embroidered suits covers the rest.

On a new outfit, ask for cotton lace to be washed before it is attached, the same idea as pre-washing fabric before stitching, and choose lace with a fibre that behaves like the base cloth. Lace and borders are added on outfits we stitch; the lace and border guide shows where they go. Mention your preference when you request a quote, whether for custom embroidery or a full outfit, and we confirm what is possible in the written quote.

Common questions

Why did the lace shrink when the kameez did not?

Lace is an open structure, often made from cotton held under tension during manufacture. When it is washed, the threads relax and draw up, so it can shrink more than a closely woven fabric beside it.

Can I iron lace on the front?

It is safer from the back, on a padded surface, with a pressing cloth. Ironing the front flattens the raised pattern and can leave a shine, especially on synthetic lace.

Will lace keep curling after I flatten it?

Narrow cotton lace may curl a little after each wash. A quick damp press while it is still slightly wet, plus a little starch, keeps it in shape between washes.

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