Facing or piping: how should a neckline be finished?

How a facing behaves

The facing is cut to the same curve as the neckline, usually a few centimetres wide, and often backed with a light interfacing so that the edge keeps its shape. Because the join is a seam and not a fold of bias fabric, corners stay crisp, which is why a V-neck or a square neck is normally faced.

It lies flat against the skin and has no ridge, so it is comfortable on a high neck. Its weaknesses are two. On thin or pale fabric the facing can show through as a darker band round the neck, and if it is not held down it can roll outwards after washing. A row of topstitching, or a few hidden stitches at the shoulder seams, keeps it in place.

How piping behaves

Tailors use the word for two things. The first is a bias strip folded over the raw edge, which dressmaking books call a bound edge. The second is a thin folded strip, sometimes with a cord inside, caught between the garment and a facing so that only a sliver shows. The second kind needs a facing as well, so the real choice is often between a plain faced edge and a faced edge with piping in it.

A bound edge is narrow, so nothing shadows through on sheer fabric, and bias cloth follows a round or sweetheart curve easily. It is slightly firmer than a facing, and corded piping firmer again, which some people notice on a close neck. In a contrast colour it frames the face; in the same fabric it is a subtle raised line. The piping and trims guide covers colours and where else to repeat it.

Which to choose, case by case

Start from the fabric and the shape. The necklines guide shows the shapes themselves.

• Plain lawn or cotton, everyday: either. A facing is flatter; self-fabric piping looks a touch more finished.
• Sheer chiffon, organza or pale voile: a narrow bound edge, or a full lining taken right to the neck so that it acts as the facing.
• Embroidered neckline: usually a facing, so that nothing competes with the work and the back of the embroidery is covered near the edge. Contrast piping can frame embroidery well if there is clear space between the two.
• V, square or other cornered shapes: a facing for sharp points. Piping has to be mitred at every corner, which is slower and bulkier.
• Thick khaddar or karandi: a facing in a thinner cotton keeps the edge from becoming bulky.
• A wide visible band: that is a neck patti, a strip stitched on the outside like a border, and it is a design feature in its own right.

Words to use in your brief

Tailoring terms differ from place to place, so say what you want to see, not only what it is called. Put the wording in the notes when you send your design, and we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design in the written quote. Whichever stitching service you use, the neckline finish is settled in writing before the fabric is cut.

• “Plain faced neckline, no visible stitching”, or “faced, with one row of topstitching”.
• “Narrow piping round the neck in the same fabric.”
• “Contrast piping in the trouser colour, showing about 3 mm.”
• “Neck patti about 1.5 cm wide in the dupatta print.”