Plain, twill and satin weave: the three basics

Plain weave

The simplest and most common weave. Because the threads interlace at every crossing, the cloth is firm, flat and looks alike on both sides.

• Examples: lawn, cambric, voile, poplin, muslin, organza and chiffon.
• Strength: strong and stable, and it resists snagging.
• Look: matt or gently lustrous, depending on the yarn.
• Drape: crisper than a twill or satin of the same weight, and it creases more readily.

Twill

In a twill the crossings step one thread along on each row, creating diagonal ribs you can see and often feel. With fewer crossings the threads pack more closely, so twills can be heavy and dense.

• Examples: denim, drill, gabardine, chino cloth and many suiting fabrics.
• Strength: very hard-wearing, which is why jeans and work trousers use it.
• Look: a visible diagonal, and the face often differs from the back.
• Drape: softer and more fluid than a plain weave of the same weight, with less obvious creasing.
• Bonus: the texture hides small marks and wear.

Satin weave

In a satin weave one set of threads floats over four or more of the other before being tied down, and the tie points are scattered so no line forms. The floating threads lie smooth and reflect light, which gives satin its shine. When the cloth is cotton with the floats running crosswise, it is usually called sateen.

• Examples: satin, charmeuse (sold locally as shamoose; see our article on shamoose silk), duchess satin, cotton sateen and the shiny stripes in some lawns.
• Strength: the floats snag easily, and seams can slip under strain.
• Look: a high shine on the face, matt on the back.
• Drape: fluid and slippery; it moves well but shows every pull.

Choosing by weave

For a kurta you will wash often and wear to work, a plain weave such as cambric is the low-maintenance choice. For trousers that take hard wear, a twill lasts. For an evening outfit with sheen and movement, a satin weave delivers, as long as you accept extra care. Patterned weaves are built on these basics; our guides to dobby and slub cottons and jacquard go further, and our article on fabrics that snag looks at wear.

If you are not sure what your fabric is, a close photo of both sides helps. With Fabric + Stitching, describe how the piece will be worn and we propose a fabric in the written quote; start with a quote request.