Which fabrics snag easily, and why?

Why some fabrics catch

Three things make a fabric vulnerable: how far its threads float on the surface, how open its structure is, and how slippery its yarn is.

• Long floats: in a satin weave, threads pass over several others before tucking under, which gives shine but leaves long lengths waiting to be hooked. Our article on plain, twill and satin weave explains floats.
• Woven patterns: jacquard and brocade build their motifs from floats, often in shiny yarns; the jacquard guide covers those cloths.
• Open structures: net and lace have holes that catch on hooks, buttons and rings. They tend to tear or stretch rather than pull a long loop.
• Loose and textured weaves: slub cottons, basket weaves and loosely woven linens have yarns that sit proud of the surface.
• Knits: a pulled loop in jersey can travel along the row, so fine knits snag readily.
• Smooth filament yarns: polyester and silk filaments slide easily, so once caught they pull a long way.

Fabrics that resist snags

Tight plain weaves in cotton, such as cambric and lawn, have short, firmly locked threads and very little to catch. Twills like denim and drill are tougher still. Matt, spun fabrics such as khaddar and most heavier cottons are forgiving, because spun yarn grips within the cloth far better than a smooth filament. Velvet rarely snags, though its pile can crush or mark.

If you are hard on clothes, or wear a lot of jewellery, these are the fabrics to lean on for daily wear, saving satins and jacquards for occasions.

Everyday snag hazards

Most snags happen during the day rather than in the wash.

• Jewellery: claw-set rings, bracelets, watch clasps and earring backs catch on dupattas and sleeves.
• Bags: rough straps, zips and buckles rub at the hip and shoulder.
• Hook-and-loop fastenings: the hook side on bags and jackets pulls threads from almost anything.
• Embellishment: sequins, beads and metal thread on one garment can catch a delicate fabric worn with it, such as a chiffon dupatta over a beaded kameez. Our guide to sequins and beadwork touches on this.
• Seats: rough upholstery and seat-belt edges catch satin and jacquard.

Preventing and treating snags

In the wash, close zips and hooks, turn delicate pieces inside out and use a mesh laundry bag; our guide to washing machine settings for kurtas explains gentle cycles. If a snag happens, do not cut the loop. Gently ease the fabric either side of it to draw the slack back, then push what remains through to the back with a fine needle. Follow the label and work slowly on delicate cloth.

When planning an outfit, pair snag-prone fabrics with smooth accessories, and think about where embroidery will sit against a dupatta. For embellished pieces, our custom embroidery page explains how work is planned, and placement can be discussed in your quote.