Pleated abayas: knife, box and sunray pleats explained

The main types of pleat

• Knife pleats: folds all facing the same direction, like a school skirt. Crisp and orderly, and they swing as you walk.
• Box pleats: two folds turned away from each other, forming a flat panel on the outside. Structured and slightly formal.
• Inverted box pleats: the reverse of a box pleat, with the folds meeting in the middle. Often used at the centre back to add room without showing much.
• Accordion or sunray pleats: narrow pleats, usually set by heat, that fan out from the top. Dramatic and very fluid.
• Pin tucks: tiny stitched folds used as decoration on a yoke or cuff rather than for fullness.

Where pleats can sit

Back yoke: a straight piece across the upper back, with pleats released below it, gives room for your shoulders and arms and lets the back fall in soft folds. It is a classic choice on an open front abaya. Our article on yokes and panels shows how a yoke shapes a garment.

Front yoke or bodice: pleats below a front yoke add fullness over the bust and stomach, which is comfortable and forgiving.

At the waist: pleats stitched down from the waist to the hip, then released, give a closer look above and a full skirt below.

Side panels: pleated panels set into the side seams add movement while the front and back stay flat.

Sleeves and cuffs: a few pleats at the cuff gather a wide sleeve neatly at the wrist.

How pleats behave and hold

Pleats need to be pressed to look their best, and some fabrics hold a sharp crease far better than others. Crisp fabrics give clean, geometric pleats; soft, drapey ones give rounder folds that look more relaxed. Neither is wrong, but it is worth knowing which effect you are after. When we quote, we can tell you how your fabric is likely to behave.

Stitched-down pleats keep their shape longer than pressed ones, because the stitching holds the top section flat. Heat-set accordion pleats can relax if washed hot or ironed flat, so they need gentle care. Our ironing and steaming guide has general tips that apply to pleats as well.

Who pleated abayas suit

Pleats released below a yoke suit most figures, since they add room where you need it. Knife and box pleats from the waist look lovely on slim and tall frames. If you would rather not add volume at the hips, keep pleats at the back yoke only, or choose narrow stitched-down pleats that stay flat until mid-thigh. On a petite frame, fewer, narrower pleats keep the proportions balanced.

Asking for pleats in your quote

Name the pleat type, where you would like it and roughly how many, and attach a photo of a design you like; our guide on briefing a tailor with screenshots shows how to point out details clearly. You can start on the design quote form. Pleated styles use more fabric than plain ones, so if you are sending your own, we confirm the quantity needed before you post anything.

If you are in Manama, the Manama page explains how ordering works from Bahrain, and Gulf customers choose a quote in dollars, euros or pounds. The written quote includes delivery and any import charges, payment is in full in advance, and production takes 5 to 7 working days from approval and payment.