Unstitched suits · 8 October 2026 · 4 min read
Using a scalloped embroidered edge as the hem
Scalloped edge fabric can become the hem itself: nothing is turned up, so the length is set at the shoulder. How the cut, slits and lining are planned around it.
InspirationYes, the edge can be the hem
When a fabric arrives with a ready scalloped embroidered edge, a tailor can lay the pieces so that edge falls at the bottom of the kameez, the end of each sleeve or the foot of the trousers. The edge then is the hem: nothing is folded up and no hem stitching shows. The price of that neat finish is that the length has to be right before the first cut, because it can only be decided at the top of the piece.
These edges are made by stitching a close, dense row along a wavy line and then trimming the fabric away outside it, so each curve is sealed and does not fray. You find them on cotton eyelet (often sold as broderie anglaise), on lawn and organza pieces sold as daman borders, and on some net and lace fabrics.
How the pieces are laid on the edge
Where the scallops run decides what can be cut from them. If the edge runs along one long side of the cloth, the front and back are laid sideways with their hems on it, so the kameez length is measured across the fabric and the width of the cloth sets the longest kameez you can have. If the edge runs across one end only, there is usually enough for one piece, often the front, and the rest needs another finish.
- Front and back: scallops all round the hem look the most finished, but need enough edge for both hem widths.
- Sleeves: each sleeve is cut with its bottom on the edge. A tapered sleeve still works, because the cuff line is straight even when the sleeve narrows.
- Trousers: a straight trouser or cigarette pant can end on the edge. A shalwar usually cannot, because its hem is gathered into a band at the ankle.
- Dupatta: if the dupatta already has the edge on it, it needs no planning at all.
Why the length is harder to change
With a plain hem, the tailor leaves a turn-up allowance and can settle the final length near the end. With a finished edge, the bottom is fixed, so every centimetre of length is decided by where the shoulder line is drawn. There is nothing to let down later, and shortening afterwards means cutting the scallops off and sewing them back higher, which leaves a visible join.
Two more limits follow from that straight edge. It cannot follow a rounded hem such as the gol daman, so it suits a straight hem best. And at side slits the corner looks tidiest when a whole scallop sits at each slit edge, which can move the slit a little up or down. If you are unsure of your length, our guide to kameez length for your height is a good place to start.
Finishing the lining underneath
Eyelet and openwork scallops are partly see-through, so the lining decides how they read. The lining has no scallops of its own and is hemmed in the ordinary way; the question is only where it stops.
- Just above the scallops: the curves and holes stay light and open. Good on cotton eyelet in warm weather.
- Level with the dips between scallops: the embroidery is backed but the points still hang free.
- A contrast colour: a coloured lining behind white eyelet makes the holes show as small dots of colour.
- In every case the lining should end above the scallop tips so it never peeps below them. Our notes on whether a kameez needs lining cover the fabric choice.
Sending a scalloped fabric for stitching
Before you post anything, measure the total length of scalloped edge you have, the width of the cloth, and which pieces you would like the edge on. Give your finished kameez length to the tips of the scallops and say so in the notes. Send a photo of the edge laid flat beside a tape measure.
With Stitching Only you send your own fabric to us in Pakistan once we have confirmed it is suitable. Start with a Stitching Only quote; we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design in writing before you send it, and making takes 5 to 7 working days once your fabric has arrived and the quote is paid.
Common questions
Can a scalloped edge be used on a curved hem?
Not as it comes, because the edge is straight. The scallops would have to be cut off as a strip and sewn along the curve like a trim, which needs extra edge length and leaves a seam line above them.
Should my length be measured to the tip or to the dip of the scallop?
Measure to the tips, the lowest point of the garment, and write that in your notes. Then the tailor knows exactly where the kameez should end on you.
What if there is not enough scalloped edge for every piece?
Put it where it shows most, usually the front and back hem, and finish the sleeves with a plain hem or a matching lace. We suggest a layout once we see the measurements of your fabric.