Stone and kundan work on suits: sewn, set or glued

Sewn-on stones

Sew-on stones have holes drilled through them, or sit in small metal settings with holes or loops in the base. Each one is stitched to the fabric individually, often by hand. Because thread holds them, they move with the cloth and rarely fall off all at once; if a thread breaks, a single stone can be stitched back. They do add weight, and the settings can have edges that catch.

Kundan-style settings

In jewellery, kundan is the old craft of setting stones in a bed of refined gold foil. On clothing the word is used more loosely for larger glass stones, often with a reflective backing, held in decorative gold-tone frames that are sewn onto the fabric through loops. The effect is rich and jewel-like, and it suits necklines, centre fronts and festive dupattas.

Kundan-style pieces are the heaviest option, so they need a fabric with some body or a supporting lining behind them. On chiffon alone they can pull the fabric and swing as you move.

Hotfix and glued stones

Hotfix stones, often called rhinestones or crystals, have a layer of glue on a flat back that melts when heated and bonds to the fabric. They can be applied quickly in large numbers, which is why they are common on ready-made party wear. Some stones are fixed with ordinary fabric glue instead.

Both hold best on smooth, tightly woven fabrics that tolerate heat. On sheer, very soft or textured fabric the bond is weaker and the glue can show. Flexing, washing and ironing all loosen them over time, so expect to lose a few.

What to check and how to care for it

A quick look at the back of the work tells you most of what you need to know. Then treat the piece gently.

• Thread on the back: stitches behind each stone mean it is sewn; a smooth back with no thread means glue.
• Settings: prongs or frames should be closed firmly with no sharp ends sticking out.
• Placement: stones where you sit, lean or carry a bag wear out first, so keep them to the neckline, front and sleeves.
• Washing: turn inside out and hand wash in cool water, or ask a dry cleaner. Never tumble dry.
• Pressing: iron only from the back over a folded towel, keeping heat away from glued stones.
• Storage: fold with tissue over stone work so it does not snag neighbouring clothes; our guide to looking after embroidered clothes has more.

Asking for stone work

Specific embellishments such as stones are not promised in advance. Describe the look, where it should sit and how much sparkle you want, or send a photo through custom embroidery, and we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design in your written quote. For ideas on dressier outfits see embroidered party wear and sequins and beadwork, then send your design.