Embroidery and fancy work · 4 October 2026 · 3 min read
Sequins and beadwork on a kameez: a practical guide
A practical guide to sequin and bead work: sitara, pearls, cutdana and nalki, how each is attached, where it sits comfortably, quality checks and aftercare.
InspirationWhat sequin and bead work is
Sequin and bead work adds small reflective or glass pieces to fabric, usually on top of thread embroidery, to make an outfit sparkle. It turns a chiffon kameez into party wear and gives a dupatta movement and light. You will meet several materials, each with its own name.
- Sitara (sequins): flat or cupped discs with a central hole, in metal-look plastic, matt, holographic or tonal finishes.
- Moti (beads and pearls): round beads in glass or plastic; faux pearls are especially popular on necklines.
- Cutdana: short cut-glass bugle beads with faceted ends that flash in the light, often used for dense, glittering fills.
- Nalki: smooth tube beads used for straight lines and rays.
- Stones and crystals: sewn-on or hot-fix stones that sit at the centre of a motif.
How they are attached
By hand with a needle, each bead or sequin is stitched individually, which is slow but secure and allows any pattern. With an aari hook, strings of sequins or beads are threaded on first and fixed with each chain-stitch loop, which is much faster; see our aari work guide. Machines can feed a continuous strip of sequins into embroidery, ideal for long even lines. Hot-fix stones are glued on with heat; they are quick, but more likely to come away in washing.
Where sequins and beads sit comfortably
Light, sheer fabrics such as chiffon, georgette, net and organza show sequins beautifully, but they also feel every gram of weight, so the work needs a backing and the garment usually needs a lining. Necklines, sleeve hems, scattered butis across a dupatta and the front panel are comfortable places. Underarms, the inner arms, the back where you sit and anywhere a bag strap or seatbelt rubs are best left plain.
There is a construction reason too. Beads cannot sit inside a seam allowance, so embellishment has to stop just short of the seams and be planned with the cut rather than added to a finished pattern. That is one reason embroidery for an outfit is designed together with the stitching. For party outfits, our weekend and gatherings guide has ideas on how much sparkle suits the event.
Quality checks before you buy
- Each sequin should lie flat and be anchored, not swing loosely on a single thread.
- Lines of beads should be knotted every few beads, so one broken thread does not lose a whole row.
- The back should not have long loose threads that will catch on jewellery or zips.
- Hot-fix stones should be firmly bonded, with no lifting edges.
- The base fabric should hang smoothly, without dragging or puckering around heavy areas.
Looking after sequins and beads
Dry cleaning is the usual advice for heavily embellished pieces. If a label allows hand washing, use cool water, turn the garment inside out, never wring and dry it flat. Most sequins are plastic and will melt under a hot iron, so press only from the back with a low setting and a cloth between. Store beaded outfits folded flat in cotton rather than on a hanger, where the weight slowly stretches the fabric. Our care guide for embroidered suits covers more.
How to ask about sequins and beads
Send a photo of the sparkle you like and say where it should go and how much of it you want. On the quote form, the statement level is for bolder work for Eid and parties. Specific materials such as sequins, pearls or cutdana are not promised in advance: what is possible on your fabric and design is confirmed in your written quote. See our custom embroidery page, or the Bahrain fancy work page for orders there, and request a quote when you are ready.
Common questions
Can a sequinned kameez be washed?
Sometimes, gently by hand in cool water, if the label allows it. Heavily beaded pieces are safer dry cleaned. Never tumble dry and never iron directly on sequins, since most are plastic.
Why do sequins fall off?
Usually because they were held by one long running thread with no knots, or because they were glued rather than stitched. Well-made work anchors each sequin and knots the thread regularly.
What is the difference between cutdana and sequins?
Cutdana are short glass beads with cut, faceted ends that glitter, while sequins are flat discs that reflect light like small mirrors. Cutdana is heavier and gives a denser sparkle.
