Styles and design · 8 October 2026 · 4 min read
Tacking stitches on a new outfit: remove them or not?
Tacking stitches on new clothes hold slits, pleats and pockets closed for pressing and travel. Which loose stitches to snip, which to leave, and how to remove them.
InspirationSnip these, leave those
Snip and pull out the long, loose stitches, often in white or a contrasting thread, that hold slits, pleats, vents or pocket openings closed. They are temporary. Leave alone anything short, dense and matching in colour, the small reinforcing bars at the top of a slit, and the thread chains that join a lining to a hem: those are part of the garment.
Tacking, called basting in many sewing books, is hand or machine stitching made with long stitches so it can be pulled out easily. Most of it is removed during making, but some is left in on purpose until the garment reaches its owner.
Why some tacking is left in
Tacking keeps edges in place while a garment is pressed and while it travels. A slit held closed lies flat, does not stretch out of shape and cannot catch on anything in a parcel. Pleats tacked in keep their folds sharp. Pocket mouths stay flat instead of gaping. Tailored jackets often arrive with a cross of thread over the back vent for the same reason.
How to tell tacking from real stitching
Look at the stitch itself rather than where it is. These are the differences:
- Tacking: long stitches, often 1 to 2 cm, loose on the surface, frequently a single strand in white or a contrast colour, with no secure knot or backstitching at the ends.
- Seams and hems: short, even, tight stitches in a matching colour, finished securely.
- Bar tacks: a tiny block of dense zigzag stitches at the top of a slit or the corners of a pocket. They reinforce a point of strain; never cut them.
- Thread chains: a short loose chain linking a lining to the outer hem so the two move together. They look casual but are deliberate.
- Hand tacks inside: a few small stitches holding a facing to a shoulder seam. Also deliberate.
Removing tacking without damage
Use small sharp scissors or a seam ripper. Snip every few stitches and pull out short lengths, rather than tugging one long thread through the whole slit. On chiffon, georgette and silk a long pull can draw the fine threads of the cloth and leave a pucker or a ladder. On velvet, organza and satin check for marks once the thread is out, and steam gently to close the needle holes.
For pleats, press them first with the tacking still in, then remove it and give a light final press through a cloth so the thread leaves no imprint. Our guide to ironing and steaming kurtas has heat settings by fabric. If you plan to travel with the outfit, you may prefer to leave the slit tacking in until you arrive; packing formal outfits for travel has more on that.
Slits, pockets and when to ask
A side slit stitched shut with long loose stitches is almost always tacking; the slit itself is described in our chaak and side slits guide. A slit closed with short, tight stitches along its full length may be a mock slit, made to look like an opening but sewn closed by design, so check before cutting. The same applies to pockets: some are decorative flaps with no opening behind them, as explained in adding pockets to kurtas.
If you are unsure about any stitch on an outfit made through our custom stitching service, send us a photo before cutting anything. When you request a quote, you can also tell us whether you prefer slits and pleats tacked for the journey or left open, and we confirm it in writing.
Common questions
Why is tacking done in white or contrasting thread?
So it is easy to see and remove. White thread also avoids any risk of dye from the tacking marking the garment while it is pressed.
Can I wear the outfit with the tacking still in?
It is better not to. Tacked slits and pleats restrict movement, the loose stitches catch on rings and bags, and the strain can tear the fabric where the thread passes through.
I already cut a stitch that was holding a seam. What now?
Stop pulling and tie off or secure the loose ends with a few hand stitches. A short gap in a seam is a simple home repair if you deal with it before it unravels further.
