Two-layer abayas: overlays, inner layers and sets

Stitched double layers

In a stitched double layer, the two layers are joined at the neckline, the shoulders and usually the armholes, and hang free below. The outer layer is often lighter or sheerer, so the inner colour shows through softly, or it is a different shade that changes as you move. The inner layer gives coverage, so the outer one can be as fine as you like.

The details to decide:

• Lengths: both layers the same length for a clean hem, or the outer a little longer or shorter for a deliberate layered look.
• Widths: the inner layer is usually cut slightly narrower, so the outer one drapes over it without the two catching.
• Sleeves: both layers in the sleeve, or the inner layer sleeveless with only the outer sleeve, which keeps the arms cooler.
• Front: on an open-front design, the edges of both layers are finished together so they move as one.

An abaya with a matching inner dress

Here the two layers are separate garments made to go together: an open abaya, often a kimono or bisht shape, over a simple long dress in the same or a toning colour. It is a popular way to wear an open style, because the inner dress gives full coverage underneath, and both pieces can be worn separately too.

The inner dress is usually a plain, straight or slightly A-line shape with a round neck, sleeveless or with fitted sleeves, so it sits smoothly under the abaya. Ask for it a little shorter than the abaya so it never peeps below the hem. Our guides to the kimono abaya and the bisht-style abaya show the open shapes that pair best with an inner dress.

Partial overlays

A partial overlay adds a second layer to one area only. A short cape-like layer over the shoulders and upper back gives a soft, floating outline; a sheer layer over the sleeves lets a fitted inner sleeve show through; a panel of a contrast fabric over the front skirt adds interest without the weight of a full second layer. These are design details rather than fixed styles, so a sketch or photo is the clearest way to describe them, as our guide to briefing a tailor with screenshots explains.

What to weigh up

Two layers mean more warmth and more weight. That suits cooler evenings and air-conditioned rooms, but in hot weather a single layer with a light lining may be more comfortable; our article on whether a kameez needs lining covers the same trade-off. Two layers also take longer to dry after washing and need a little more care when pressing.

On the plus side, a second layer lets you wear a fabric that would be too sheer alone, and it gives a plain abaya real depth with no embellishment at all.

Ordering a layered abaya

A layered abaya uses two fabrics, so tell us whether we should supply both, or whether you will send your own once we have confirmed them and the quantities. The Fabric + Stitching page for Saudi Arabia explains how fabric is chosen and quoted. In Jeddah? The Jeddah page explains ordering from there.

Start on the quote form, describe each layer and upload a photo. The written quote includes delivery and any import duties, taxes and fees, and production takes 5 to 7 working days once the quote is approved and paid in full.