What a tailor assumes unless you say otherwise

Six defaults, and the line that settles each

• Slit height. Unless told, a tailor opens the side slits wherever is customary for that length of kameez, often around the hip. Say: “Side slits to end 20 cm below my waist,” or give the slit length measured up from the hem. The chaak guide shows the options.
• Hem depth. A hem can be a narrow machine-turned edge or a deeper fold of several centimetres. The deeper one hangs straighter and leaves length to let down; a curved hem has to be narrow. Say: “A 4 cm turned hem,” or “Narrow hem, the fabric is short.”
• Neckline finish. The edge may be faced, with nothing showing outside, or piped, or bound. Say: “Round neck, 18 cm deep from the shoulder, plain faced edge, no piping.” Our guide to magzi, piping and binding explains the difference.
• Lining. Some tailors line only when asked, others line anything pale. Say: “Body lined in white cotton, sleeves unlined,” or “No lining.” If you are unsure, read does my kameez need lining.
• Zip or opening. A close cut needs a way in: a side zip, a back zip, a keyhole with a loop, or simply a neck wide enough to pull on. Say: “Concealed zip in the left side seam,” or “No zip, loose enough to pull over my head.”
• Trouser waistband. The choices are full elastic, a drawstring, elastic at the back with a flat front, or elastic and drawstring together. Say: “Elastic waist with a drawstring as well.” The trouser measuring page covers the waist and rise.

Smaller things worth one more line

• Sleeve opening: give the width you want at the wrist or sleeve hem, especially if you wear bangles or a watch.
• Trouser hem width: a number for the ankle opening avoids trousers that are narrower or wider than you pictured.
• Dupatta edges: often a fine rolled hem unless you ask for something else; dupatta finishing ideas lists the choices.
• Buttons: say whether a placket should open or is only for show.
• Seams on sheer fabric: if the cloth is see-through, ask for French seams.

How to write the list

One line per detail, with a number and a unit wherever one fits, measured from a named point such as the shoulder, the waist or the hem. Avoid “normal”, “medium” and “not too deep”, which mean something different to everyone. Where a number is hard to judge, measure the detail on a garment you already own and like.

It is also fine to write “your choice” beside anything you truly do not mind. That is an instruction too, and it tells the tailor where to use judgement.

On our orders, these lines go in the design notes when you send your design and request a quote. Each one is a request: we tell you what can be done on your fabric and design, and the design approval page explains how the details are agreed in writing before cutting.