What are slit sleeves? Open sleeves on a kameez

The main versions

The look changes a lot depending on how long the opening is and what holds it together. Most designs you see on a kameez fall into one of these.

• Cuff slit: a short opening at the wrist or elbow hem, a few inches long, often finished with a button, a tassel or a loop. It is the most modest version and the easiest to wear every day.
• Full-length split caught at points: the sleeve is open from shoulder to hem along the outer arm and joined every few inches with a button, a small bar tack or a fabric loop. This is the version people usually mean by a slit sleeve.
• Tie-caught sleeve: the edges are held by small fabric ties or cords, which can be loosened or tightened slightly and add a soft, handmade feel.
• Open flowing sleeve: the sleeve is joined only at the top and falls apart completely, more like a cape. It works best on short or elbow-length sleeves.

Keeping the coverage you want

Because a slit sleeve shows skin by design, it is worth deciding before you order how much arm you are happy to show. You have a few simple choices, and they can be combined.

Catch points placed close together, every two or three inches, keep the opening narrow. Wider spacing gives a more open look. A separate fitted under-sleeve in a matching or nude-toned fabric can sit beneath the slit, so the design still shows but the arm stays covered. A sheer under-sleeve in chiffon or net is a lighter middle ground. If coverage matters, the modest dressing guide has more on balancing sleeves with neckline and length.

Fabrics that fall well

A slit only looks graceful if the two edges hang softly and part a little between the catch points. Chiffon, georgette, soft lawn, voile and crepe do this well. Crisp cotton and cambric tend to stand open in stiff triangles, which can still look neat on a short cuff slit but rarely on a full-length split. Heavy winter fabrics such as khaddar or velvet are better with a short cuff slit only, because the weight drags a long opening apart. The edges themselves need a clean, narrow finish, such as a facing, piping or a rolled hem, because they are on show.

Pairing and ordering

Slit sleeves are busy at the arm, so they look best with a calm neckline such as a round or boat neck from the neckline guide, and with a plain or lightly printed body. Full-length versions suit three-quarter and full sleeves from the sleeve guide; shorter versions suit elbow length.

This style is not one of the fixed sleeve choices on our form, so send a photo of the sleeve you like with your design brief and say how many catch points you want and whether you need an under-sleeve. We confirm what is possible on your fabric in the written quote. Start a quote with your photo when you are ready.