Styles and design · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read
What is a godet? Godets, gores and kalis compared
What is a godet? A triangular piece set into a seam or slit to add flare low down. How it compares with a gore and a kali, and where each shapes a skirt or kameez.
InspirationThe definition
A godet is a triangular or fan-shaped piece of fabric set into a seam, a slit or a cut in a garment, point upwards, so the hem flares out while the area above stays smooth. The bottom edge is usually curved so the hem stays level once the extra fabric falls into folds.
Godets are often in the same cloth as the garment, but they can be in a contrast fabric, pleated, or edged with lace for a more decorative look. The word is French, and it is mostly used in Western dressmaking.
The gore
A gore is a panel that is narrow at the top and wider at the bottom and runs the whole length of a skirt or dress. A six-gore or eight-gore skirt is made from that many panels joined side by side. Because every seam can be shaped, gores fit the waist and hips closely and then flare evenly from higher up than a godet does.
The kali
Kali is the South Asian word for a tapered panel that adds flare, and it is the closest equivalent to a gore. A kalidar kurta or frock is made of many kalis running from the bodice or waist to the hem, sometimes dozens in a very full anarkali, so the skirt swings out from high up. Our kalidar frock style page shows the cut, and the stitching glossary gives the word alongside its English meaning.
The three side by side
All three add width at the hem, but they start the flare in different places and give a different movement. The extra width at the hem is what tailors call the ghera, and our hemlines page explains how it changes the look of a kameez.
- Where the flare begins: a godet low down, often at the knee or below the hip; a gore from the waist or hip; a kali from the bodice or waist.
- How it looks: a godet gives a smooth top and a sudden flutter at the hem; gores give an even flare; many kalis give a very full, swinging skirt with lots of seams.
- Where you see it: godets in trumpet and mermaid skirts and some kameez hems; gores in A-line and flared skirts; kalis in frocks, anarkalis and kalidar kurtas.
Asking for godets or kalis
Godets are a neat way to widen a kameez hem without adding width at the hips: set into the side seams or the centre back, they add swing below the knee. They also suit Western skirts and dresses; made-to-measure western dresses covers those orders. Neither godets nor kalis are fixed options on our quote form, so send a photo and a short description through Send Your Design, and we confirm what works on your fabric in the written quote. Start with your design photo.
Common questions
Is a godet the same as a gusset?
No. A gusset is a small piece, often diamond-shaped, set in under the arm or at the crotch to give room to move. A godet adds flare at a hem. They can look similar laid flat but do different jobs.
Can godets be added to a kameez?
Yes, they can be set into the side seams or the centre back to widen the hem without adding width at the hips. Send a photo of the look you want and it is confirmed in the written quote.
Which fabrics suit godets?
Fabrics with some drape, such as georgette, crepe, chiffon and soft cotton, let godets fall in soft folds. In a stiff fabric they stand out more sharply, which can be a deliberate look.
