What is a tiered dress? Tiers, gathers and flare

How each tier is gathered onto the one above

Picture the skirt as a stack of rings. The first hangs from the bodice, yoke or waist. The second is a longer strip of fabric, drawn up along its top edge with gathering stitches until it matches the bottom of the first, then sewn on. The third is longer again, and so on down. Because every tier adds width, the hem ends up far wider than the top.

The seams are part of the design. They are usually pressed upward and topstitched, or covered with a narrow trim, so that the gathers below fall evenly. A dress can be tiered from the shoulder, from a high waistline, or only from the hip down.

Tier count, depth and fullness

Three decisions shape the result.

• Number of tiers. Two or three deep tiers give a calm, long look. Five or more shallow ones look busier and more playful.
• Depth of each tier. Equal depths look regular. Tiers that deepen towards the hem draw the eye down and tend to look more elegant on a long dress.
• Gather ratio. This is how much longer each tier is than the one above. One and a half times gives a soft ripple; twice the length gives full, bouncy gathers.

Tiers versus frills and ruffles

A tier is structural. It is a section of the dress itself: take one away and the dress is shorter. A frill or ruffle is decoration, a strip gathered along one edge and sewn onto the surface of a garment or along its hem.

A ruffle dress often has frills stitched in rows onto a plain base skirt, so the rows overlap like roof tiles with a full layer of fabric behind them. That makes it heavier and warmer than a tiered dress, which is a single layer from top to bottom.

A tiered frock, in South Asian shop language, is a kameez or long frock whose skirt is built in this way instead of from vertical panels. For the panelled alternative, see the kalidar frock.

Fabrics that gather well, and who tiers suit

Chiffon, georgette, lawn, soft cotton and viscose gather finely and fall close to the body, so the fullness shows as movement. Crisp cotton and organza make each tier stand out, which gives more volume. Thick fabrics pile up at every seam and are rarely tiered more than once. Sheer fabrics need a lining or a slip. Our chiffon guide covers lining and care.

Tiered dresses are easy to wear because nothing below the first seam grips the body. If you are petite, or prefer less volume at the hip, ask for the first seam to sit higher, a gentle gather and fewer, deeper tiers.

Our tiered maxi, and asking for your own

Our tiered maxi dress shows the cut: light chiffon falls from a gathered yoke into three soft tiers to the floor, with full sleeves gathered at the cuff. It comes in seven colours, in sizes S to XL or made to your measurements. A change such as a lining or a shorter sleeve is requested through a customise quote and confirmed in writing.

For a tiered design of your own, send a photo. Fabric + Stitching covers an outfit made in fabric we supply, and the maxi measuring guide shows how to give the length.