What to wear in the rainy season

What monsoon weather does to clothes

Three things happen at once. Downpours arrive with little warning and soak whatever you are wearing. The air is already full of moisture, so wet cloth takes far longer to dry than it does in summer. And every road has standing water, which traffic and your own heels flick up the back of your trousers.

Wet fabric also clings, shows what is under it and, if the dye is poor, bleeds on to whatever it touches. Clothes put away slightly damp smell musty within a day or two.

Fabrics that dry, and fabrics that sulk

Our guide to fabrics for humid weather compares fibres in depth. For rain in particular:

• Light cotton, lawn and cambric: breathable and comfortable in damp heat. Thin weaves dry in reasonable time; choose prints and deeper shades.
• Cotton and polyester blends: dry fastest and crease least, but feel warmer. Useful for days when you expect to be caught out.
• Light crepe and georgette: shed water quickly and suit a dressier day, with a lining or inner layer.
• Viscose: soft, but weaker when wet. It stretches and drips, so keep it for dry days.
• Khaddar, denim and heavy cotton: soak up water, become heavy and stay wet for hours.
• Velvet and raw silk: rain leaves marks that do not always come out. Keep them at home.

What turns see-through when wet

White, cream and pastel fabrics are the worst offenders, and fine lawn, voile and chiffon top the list. A kameez that is perfectly decent dry can cling and show skin and underclothes once it is soaked.

Mid and dark tones, busy prints and slightly denser weaves hide far more. A lining helps too, though it adds a second layer to dry, so a skin-tone slip under an unlined kurta is often the better answer in this season. Test a new fabric by wetting a corner and holding it over your hand; our article on non see-through fabrics has more checks.

Colour, hems and the dupatta

Small choices decide whether an outfit survives a wet commute.

• Colour: mid tones such as teal, rust, olive and plum, and all-over prints, disguise splash marks. Pale plain trousers show every one.
• Dye: deep colours can run when drenched. Do the colour-fastness test on fabric before it is stitched, most of all for a contrast dupatta.
• Trouser hems: above the ankle bone. Straight or cigarette trousers cut slightly cropped stay out of puddles; floor-length palazzos and full shalwars act as a wick.
• Kurta length: knee length. Long hems get wet from below as well as above.
• Dupatta: light and short, or left at home. A soaked dupatta is heavy, clings and may bleed on to the kameez.
• Shoes: rubber or plastic sandals with grip. Leather and fabric shoes stay wet and stain.

What to ask for in a monsoon suit

If you are having clothes made with the rains in mind, put it in the notes. Through our custom stitching service each piece is cut to your measurements, so a cropped trouser length can be exact. Making takes 5 to 7 working days from approval and full payment and shipping time is extra, so order before the season starts. Our everyday page has more easy-care pieces.

In your quote request, give these four things, and we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design.

• Fabric: a printed cotton or cotton blend in a mid tone.
• Embroidery level: none or delicate. Dense thread work holds water and dries slowly.
• Lengths: a knee-length kameez and the finished trouser length you want, measured to just above the ankle.
• Lining: whether you want one, or would sooner wear a separate slip.