Which fabrics should not be steamed?

Fabrics and finishes to keep away from steam

These are the ones where moisture and heat do more harm than good, whatever the steamer.

• Leather, suede and faux leather: moisture stains and stiffens real leather, and heat can warp plastic coatings.
• Glued sequins, beads and stones: steam softens the glue, and plastic sequins can curl or turn cloudy. Sewn-on work is less at risk but still needs distance.
• Foil, glitter and flock prints: the printed layer can soften, smear or lift.
• Waxed and coated fabrics: heat moves the coating and leaves patches.
• Crinkled and crushed fabrics: crinkle chiffon, crushed cotton and pleats pressed into natural fibres relax under steam and lose their texture.
• Metallic threads with real metal in them: repeated moisture can dull or tarnish them over time.

Can you steam silk?

Usually, yes. Plain silk crepe, chiffon and georgette respond well to steam from the inside, with the head held a little away and kept moving. The risk is water spotting: some silks, notably taffeta, raw silk and some satins, show a mark wherever a drop lands. Test on a hidden seam allowance first. A spot often fades when the whole panel is steamed evenly, but on those silks a cool dry iron through a pressing cloth may be safer. Cotton silk and raw silk behave quite differently, so go by the label of the suit in front of you.

Can you steam velvet?

Yes, and steam is kinder to velvet than an iron, as long as the steamer never touches the pile. Hang the piece, steam it from the back or hold the head a hand’s width from the front, and let it dry completely before touching or folding it. Pressing the steamer onto velvet, or brushing it while damp, leaves flattened, shiny patches that are hard to lift. Our velvet guide has more on the fabric itself.

Stopping steamer water marks

Water marks usually come from the steamer rather than the fabric: drops of condensed water spitting from the head, or minerals from hard water. A few habits prevent most of them.

• Let the steamer heat fully, and run it into the air for a moment before it goes near the garment.
• Keep the hose straight and the head upright, so condensed water drains back instead of spitting.
• Use the water the manufacturer recommends, which in hard-water areas is often distilled or filtered.
• Keep moving; never park the head on one spot of a delicate fabric.
• Let the garment dry on its hanger before wearing or folding it, so damp creases do not set.

If you would rather not fuss

Plain cottons and linen are the easiest fabrics to press at home, and our linen guide explains how it behaves. When you order through custom stitching, mention in your quote request how you like to look after your clothes, and we confirm which fabrics and finishes suit that on your design.