A-line midi skirts made to measure: what to decide

Where the hem should fall

Midi covers anything between just below the knee and just above the ankle, which is a large range. Most people find a midi skirt looks best when the hem ends at a narrower part of the leg: either just below the knee, or below the widest part of the calf. A hem that ends exactly at the fullest part of the calf tends to make the leg look heavier, simply because the edge sits where the leg is widest.

As a rough guide, for a woman of average height a midi skirt measured from the natural waist is often somewhere around 60 to 80 cm (about 24 to 31 inches), but your height and the shoes you wear change that. The reliable method is to measure down from your waist to the exact point on your calf where you want the hem to sit, wearing the shoes you plan to wear. Our guide to measuring for a dress explains waist and length measurements, and the size guide shows where to find your waist.

How much flare

A-line means the skirt widens gently from the hip to the hem. How much it widens changes both the look and how easy it is to move in.

• Slight A-line. Only a little wider at the hem than the hip. Smart and close to a straight skirt. Needs a vent or slit at midi length so you can walk freely.
• Classic A-line. Clearly flared but not full. The most versatile, easy to walk and sit in without a slit.
• Full A-line. Close to a quarter circle, with swing at the hem. Feminine and comfortable, but adds visible volume.

Pockets, waistband and fabric

Side seam pockets suit an A-line skirt well, because the flare hides them. They should be deep enough for a phone and set so they do not gape at the hip. Our article on adding pockets explains placements that also apply to skirts.

For the waistband, a flat band with a side or back zip looks smartest and suits tucked-in tops. A flat front with elastic at the back gives comfort without bulk at the front. A full elastic or drawstring waist is easiest to wear but adds gathers, which show under a tucked top. Choose the fabric for the flare you want: cotton, linen and denim hold an A-line shape, crepe and viscose drape more softly, and very stiff fabrics stand away from the body.

Tops that pair with it

Because the skirt is fuller at the hem, it looks most balanced with a top that is neater above. Tucked-in shirts and blouses, fitted knits and short or cropped tops that end at the waist all show the waistband and the shape of the skirt. A short kurta or a top ending at the high hip works over it too. A long, loose top over a midi skirt tends to hide the waist and make the outfit look shapeless; if you prefer more coverage, a belt helps.

Ease matters for comfort. Our guide to ease for dresses, co-ords and trousers suggests how much room to leave at the waist and hip.

Skirts are among the Western pieces we make through custom stitching. Tell us your length, flare, pockets and waistband in your quote request, with a photo if you have one, and we confirm the fabric and measurements in writing before cutting.