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The Gilded Seam: Custom Women’s Stitching

Fit, measuring and alterations · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read

How to describe a fit problem so it gets solved

How to explain fit problems to a tailor: say where, when, by how much and against which garment, with the words, photos and measurements a remote tailor can act on.

Gold-handled scissors, a tape measure, orange thread and a needle on a white surfaceInspiration

Where, when, how much, compared with what

To describe a fit problem so it gets solved, say where it is, when it happens, how much it is out by and which garment you are comparing it with. “It feels tight” gives a tailor nothing to change. “The back of the armhole pulls when I reach forward, about two fingers too tight, while my blue kurta is fine there” can go straight into the next pattern.

This matters most when your tailor cannot see you. Ordering online, your words, photos and numbers are the only view anyone has of how the last garment behaved.

The four parts of a useful note

Each part answers a question the person cutting your next garment will ask.

  • Where: name a landmark, not a feeling. Back of the armhole, across the upper back, at the front crotch, the side seam at hip level, the cuff.
  • When: standing still, sitting, walking, reaching forward, arms raised, after a few hours. Many faults only appear in one position.
  • How much: a number, even a rough one. Two fingers, about 3 cm, the hem lifts by an inch at the front.
  • Compared with what: a garment that does fit there. Its measurement at the same point is often the most useful number of all.

Words that mean something specific

Tailors read certain words in a particular way, so it helps to use them deliberately. Pulls or strains means too tight, and the creases point towards the cause. Gapes means an edge stands away from the body. Rides up means the garment moves upwards when you move. Sags or bags means there is too much fabric. Digs in means an edge presses into you. Twists means a seam or sleeve turns away from where it should hang.

If you are unsure of the word, describe what you see in the mirror: “diagonal creases from the bust towards the armhole” is clearer than any technical term used wrongly.

Measure the problem, not only your body

Where there is too much fabric, pinch out the excess until it sits right and measure the fold; the extra is twice the width of the fold. Where something is too tight, measure how far apart the edges are when it pulls, or how much a button front opens. Where a length is wrong, measure where it ends now and where you want it.

Photos are the other half. Take them from the front, side and back in good light, standing relaxed, then with your arms raised and seated if that is when it happens. Our guide to using a kameez that fits as your template shows how to measure the comparison garment.

Putting it into your next order

Write your notes in the enquiry when you request a quote. They are turned into measurements and design details that you check and agree in writing before cutting, as described in design approval. The custom stitching page explains the rest of the process.

A preference for the next garment is different from a fault. If an order does not match the measurements or design agreed in your quote, that is our mistake, and our fault terms apply: you report it no later than 7 days after delivery, we correct or remake it without charge for the work, and you pay the postage both ways. Our guide to what to do if your outfit does not match your order explains it. We do not alter clothes from elsewhere, but these notes make every next order closer.

Common questions

Should I send photos of the problem?

Yes. A photo from the side or back shows creases and gaps that are hard to put into words. Take it in daylight, in a relaxed stance, and in the position where the problem shows.

What if I do not know the right term?

Describe what you see and feel in plain words, with where and when. Plain words with a measurement are far more useful than a technical term used loosely.

How many fit notes is too many?

There is no limit, but put the most important first. One or two clear notes with numbers are easier to act on than a long list of small dislikes.

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Ready when you are

Put it into practice

Send us your measurements, design images or fabric photos and we’ll send you a written quote.

No commitment until you approve your written quote.