How to wear a belt with a kurta or kameez

Which kurtas take a belt

The cut decides most of it. Think of a belt as adding shape, so it suits kurtas that do not already have much.

• Straight kurtas. The easiest. A straight cut gathers evenly under a belt and looks like a belted tunic dress.
• Gently A-line kurtas. Work well with a soft or narrow belt. The flare below the belt becomes a small skirt. See the A-line cut.
• Shirt-style kurtas with a collar and button placket. Look sharp with a slim leather belt, much like a shirt dress.
• Kalidar and frock cuts. Already shaped by panels and flare. A belt adds bulk at the waist and fights the line.
• Angrakha and empire cuts. Already marked at the bust or waist by a seam, so a belt usually has nowhere sensible to go.

Fabric and length

Medium-weight cottons, linen, khaddar and karandi hold soft gathers neatly under a belt. Fine lawn can be belted with a soft fabric tie but tends to crush under a stiff belt. Chiffon and georgette slip and bunch; they look better with a narrow sash than with a buckle.

Length matters as much as cut. A knee-length kurta belted at the waist reads like a dress worn over trousers. A calf-length kurta can look long and narrow when belted, which suits taller frames, while on a shorter frame it can cut the body into two long halves. A hip-length kurta is usually too short to belt, because the belt ends up near the hem.

Where the belt should sit

Most people belt at the natural waist, the narrowest point of the torso, which gives the clearest shape. Belting slightly higher lengthens the legs visually and suits flowing fabrics. Belting lower, at the hip, gives a relaxed look but only works on a kurta with very little flare.

Before belting, pull a little fabric up over the belt all the way round so the kurta blouses softly instead of pulling tight. Check that the side slits start below the belt, not above it: a slit that opens above the belt will gape. Our guide to side slits explains how their height is chosen.

Which belt to choose

A slim leather or faux-leather belt suits shirt-style kurtas and work outfits. A wide fabric sash or obi-style belt suits plain kurtas and dressier occasions. Chain belts and rope ties are more casual. Many people find the matching fabric tie the most useful, because it never clashes and can be worn knotted at the front, side or back.

Asking for a matching fabric tie

If you order a kurta made to measure, you can ask for a tie belt cut from the same fabric, and for small thread loops or belt loops at the side seams so it stays in place. The belt can then come off when you want the kurta straight. There needs to be enough fabric for the tie, which is worth checking if you are sending your own; our guide to using leftover fabric from your suit has ideas.

Ask for it in your quote through custom stitching, and we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design. A shirt dress can be belted in the same way, and a line or straight kameez helps you choose the cut first. Start with the quote form.