Can kitenge or kanga be made into a kameez or kurta?

Kitenge: length, motifs and finish

Kitenge is often sold as a six-yard piece or a half piece of three yards, and some shops sell it by the metre. It is usually a little over a metre wide, so our figures in how much fabric a suit needs apply fairly closely.

• A half piece: enough for a kameez on its own in most sizes, with plain trousers in one of the print’s colours.
• Large motifs: a big circle or flower placed over the bust or split down the centre front looks accidental. Decide which motif should sit at the centre of the front and say so.
• Directional prints: if the pattern has an up and a down, every panel must be cut the same way, which takes more cloth.
• The stiff finish: many wax prints feel crisp, almost waxy, when new and soften with washing. That body suits structured shapes such as an A-line kameez or a straight kurta better than a gathered or heavily flared cut.

Kanga: what a pair can and cannot become

A kanga has a border on all four sides, a central design, and a printed Swahili saying, and the pair is printed as one length that is cut apart. It is lighter and softer than kitenge, so a kurta made from it may want a lining. The saying matters too: it is meant to be read, so decide whether it should sit somewhere visible, such as the back hem, or be cut away.

• One kanga: in smaller sizes, a short sleeveless or short-sleeved top.
• A pair: a hip-length kurta, with the front from one kanga, the back from the other and short sleeves from what is left.
• Using the border: the printed edge makes a ready-made hem or sleeve band, and placing it there saves cloth.
• Not possible: a long kameez with trousers from a single pair. Keeping one kanga whole as a wrap or stole beside a kurta from the other is often the nicer answer.

What to photograph before you post it

Under Stitching Only from Kenya you send your fabric to Pakistan and we cut, stitch and finish the outfit, but we confirm that the fabric suits your design and is enough before you post anything. Clear photos make that quick; our tips on photographing fabric for a quote explain the details. These five shots cover almost every question we would ask.

• The whole piece laid flat in daylight, with a tape measure along the length and across the width.
• A close-up of the print showing its size and which way is up.
• For a kanga, the border and the saying, so we can plan where they sit.
• The back of the cloth, to show how strongly the print comes through.
• Any marks, folds or faded lines you would like cut around.

After you post it

Sending fabric means two shipping stages: your parcel to us, then the finished outfit back to you. Making takes 5 to 7 working days once your fabric has arrived and the quote is paid in full, and the return shipping is separate and included in your written quote. The Kenya page covers currency and delivery, and you can start a Stitching Only quote with your photos attached.