Made-to-measure blouses: soft tops for work and weekends

Neck openings and how they behave

The neckline sets the character of a soft top more than any other detail, and on a fluid fabric each one sits a little differently.

Round, V, boat and square necks are among the neckline choices on our quote form. For a tie neck, keyhole or split neck, send a photo and we confirm what is possible on your fabric in the written quote. The neckline styles pages show the common shapes side by side.

• Round neck. The easiest under a blazer or cardigan. On a top without a fastening, it needs a back opening, a button loop or enough width to go over the head.
• Keyhole or split neck. A short slit at the front or back, closed with a button and loop. It solves the over-the-head problem neatly and adds a small point of interest.
• Tie neck. A long strip of the same fabric attached to the neckline, tied in a bow or a loose knot or left hanging. It looks polished for work and needs a soft fabric that knots without bulk.
• V-neck. Lengthens the neck and frames a pendant. On slippery fabrics, a shallow V stays where you put it better than a deep one.

Sleeve finishes for long and short sleeves

A long sleeve blouse made to order is mainly a question of the cuff. A plain turned hem is the simplest and pushes up easily. A buttoned cuff, sometimes with a short placket above it, looks sharper and can be undone and rolled. A sleeve gathered into a narrow band at the wrist, often called a bishop sleeve, gives a soft, full look and stays at the wrist when you reach. Elastic at the wrist is the most casual of the four.

Shorter options include a straight elbow sleeve and a flutter sleeve that falls loosely from the shoulder. Under a blazer, keep sleeves slim enough to slide inside it. Our sleeve styles pages describe the shapes in more detail.

The right hem length for tucking

A blouse you want to tuck in needs to be longer than one you wear loose, because the extra length is what keeps it in place when you lift your arms or sit down. A practical way to choose is to measure a top you already tuck in comfortably, from the highest point of the shoulder to the hem, and use that figure. If you have nothing suitable, a hem that reaches roughly to the fullest part of the hips usually stays tucked into trousers with a waist at the natural waist.

For a blouse worn out, a hem at the high hip suits wide trousers and long skirts. A curved hem, slightly longer at the back, is a sensible compromise for a top you will wear both ways. Our guide to measuring clothes that fit you shows how to measure a top laid flat.

Fabrics and ease

Soft tops rely on drape, so the cloth is chosen for how it falls more than for crispness. Viscose, crepe and soft cotton voile are comfortable for daily wear; georgette and chiffon look dressier but are sheer and need a camisole underneath. If you sit in a cold office after a hot commute, our piece on fabrics for air-conditioned offices is worth reading before you choose.

A blouse also needs more room at the bust and back than a fitted shirt, so the fabric falls instead of stretching; see our guide to ease by garment.

Ordering one

Tops are among the Western pieces we make, and a single blouse is a normal order. Choose custom stitching and say which neckline, sleeve finish and hem length you want, whether you will tuck it in, and what you will wear it with. We can supply an agreed fabric, or stitch fabric you send. Request a quote with a photo of a blouse you like; the details are confirmed in writing before cutting.