Restyling an old suit into something you will wear again

Restyling ideas that usually work

• Long kameez to short kurta: a calf-length kameez becomes a hip or thigh-length kurta to wear with straight trousers, palazzos or jeans. The cut-off fabric can become pockets, cuffs or a matching band.
• New sleeves: full sleeves shortened to three-quarter, a flare taken out, or cuffs added.
• A new neckline: deeper, wider or reshaped. Our guide to changing a kameez neckline explains what is possible.
• Side slits: added or raised to update a straight kameez.
• An open front: some straight kameez can be opened down the centre front to become a light jacket over a plain kurta, depending on the print and any neckline embroidery.
• Trousers: palazzos narrowed to straight trousers, or a new pair stitched to go with the kameez.

Refreshing with trims

Sometimes the design is fine and the suit just looks tired. Small additions can lift it.

• Lace: at the hem, sleeves or neckline, in cotton crochet lace for lawn or a finer lace for chiffon.
• Piping: a contrast colour picked from the print, around the neckline and cuffs. Our piping and trims guide shows options.
• Buttons and plackets: a placket with new buttons turns a plain round neck into something smarter.
• Lining: a lining added to a pale or sheer kameez can make it wearable again.
• The dupatta: new edges, tassels or lace change the whole outfit; see dupatta finishing ideas.
• Embroidery: most restyles rely on cutting, reshaping, trims and fabric rather than new embroidery, which is hard to match to the original.

Mix and match rather than matching sets

A three-piece suit does not have to be worn as one. Many restyles simply separate it: the kurta over plain white or black trousers, the printed trousers under a plain kameez, the dupatta with something else entirely. Our guide to pairing printed and plain pieces has ideas. A new plain piece stitched to go with an old one can make the whole suit wearable again.

Western pairings work too. A short printed kurta looks fresh over jeans or wide-leg trousers, and a long straight kameez can be worn as a tunic over slim trousers. If the dupatta is the best part of the suit, wear it as a scarf with a coat or a plain top. Our autumn layering ideas show more ways to wear kurtas beyond a matching set.

Planning a restyle

• Start with how you will wear it: work, weekends or gatherings. Our everyday ideas and weekend and gatherings ideas may help.
• Check the fabric: look for thin patches, fading along folds and stains. Restyling cannot hide worn-through fabric.
• Gather leftovers: any spare fabric from the original suit is valuable for bands, facings and panels.
• Collect pictures: save a few pictures of the look you want, so you can show exactly what you mean.
• Ask a tailor: for the restyle itself, take the suit and your pictures to a local tailor who can see it and pin it on you, and ask what is possible and what it will cost before any cutting. Restyling existing garments is not one of our services, but for a new outfit in the style you want, see custom stitching or start a quote.