Fit, measuring and alterations · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read
How much room for a thermal under a winter kameez?
Should I size up for layering under a winter kameez? Not all over: a thermal takes room at the upper arm, armhole and bust, so measure over it at those points.
InspirationYou rarely need a size up all over
You usually do not need to size up a whole winter kameez for a thermal underneath. A thin base layer takes up room mainly at the upper arm, the armhole and the bust, so the simplest approach is to measure those points over the thermal you will actually wear, and keep the rest of the fit as normal.
Sizing up all over adds width where none is needed, such as across the shoulders, and the kameez ends up looking too big while still feeling tight in the sleeves.
The shoulder seam is the giveaway. On a kameez that is a size too big, it slides off the edge of the shoulder and down the arm, which pulls the sleeve lower and makes the armhole sit even further down your side. The result is a kameez that looks borrowed rather than made for you, which is exactly what made-to-measure is meant to avoid.
Where a base layer takes up space
A thermal adds a layer of fabric right round your body, but you only feel it where the kameez is already close. Those places are:
- The upper arm, especially in a fitted or three-quarter sleeve.
- The armhole, where two layers bunch together under the arm.
- The bust and upper back, where a close kameez starts to pull across.
- The wrist, if you wear long thermal sleeves under a narrow cuff.
Measuring over the layer
Put on the thermal or base layer you plan to wear and take your bust, upper arm, armhole and, if relevant, wrist measurements over it. Keep your shoulder width, lengths and neck measurements without it, because a thin layer does not change those. Our measuring help page explains each one.
If you wear a heavier layer, such as a fleece-lined top or a jumper under the kameez, measure over that instead and mention it, because it affects the neck and shoulders as well.
Winter fabrics and lining
Winter kameez fabrics are thicker in themselves. Karandi, khaddar and marina have more body than lawn, so they need slightly more room to feel comfortable even without a layer underneath. A lining adds another layer again. Our comparison of winter fabrics and our guide to shalwar kameez for snowy winters cover how warm each is.
What goes on top matters too
Think about the layers outside the kameez as well. A long coat or a fitted cardigan over a kameez needs the kameez sleeves to slide inside its own sleeves, so very wide or flared sleeves can bunch up under a coat. A slim or straight sleeve with a little room for the thermal is usually the easiest shape for a cold commute. If you wear a waistcoat or shawl instead, sleeve width matters less.
Ordering a winter kameez
When you order through Fabric + Stitching, say that the kameez will be worn over a thermal and send the measurements you took over it. Ask for slightly wider sleeves if you like a fitted look but want room for the layer. Use the Fabric + Stitching quote form, and we confirm the fabric and fit in the written quote.
Common questions
Will the kameez feel too loose without the thermal?
Slightly, at the upper arm and bust, but much less than if you sized up all over. On a winter fabric, a little ease looks natural anyway.
Do the trousers need extra room too?
Only if you wear thermal leggings underneath. Measure your thigh and calf over them, especially for narrow styles like cigarette pants.
Should sleeves be wider for winter?
If you wear long thermal sleeves underneath, a slightly wider sleeve and cuff avoids bunching. A full or three-quarter sleeve is usually the most practical for winter.
