Embroidery and fancy work · 4 October 2026 · 3 min read
Aari work explained: hooked-needle chain stitch
What aari work is: the hooked needle and frame behind it, how to recognise aari chain stitch, the sheer fabrics it suits, why it can unravel and how to ask for it.
InspirationWhat aari work is
Aari work is embroidery made with an aari, a fine hooked needle a little like a tiny crochet hook set in a wooden handle. The fabric is stretched tight on a frame, the thread is held underneath, and the embroiderer pushes the hook down through the cloth, catches the thread and pulls a loop up through the previous loop. Repeated quickly, this makes a continuous line of chain stitch on the surface.
Because the hand never has to pull a long thread through the fabric, aari is far quicker than chain stitch made with an ordinary needle, and the line can curve and spiral freely. The same method is known in Europe as tambour embroidery.
Where aari comes from
Hooked-needle embroidery has a long history across South Asia. It flourished under the Mughals, it is closely tied to the woollen shawls and crewel work of Kashmir, and in western India it was traditionally used by leather workers, which is why one style is still called mochi work. In Pakistan today, aari is used for fine thread embroidery on festive clothing and, very often, as the method for attaching sequins and beads, which can be threaded on and fixed with each loop.
That is why shops sometimes use aari work to mean thread embroidery with a scatter of sequins and beads, rather than just the stitch itself.
How to recognise aari embroidery
- On the front: a smooth, unbroken chain of tiny, very even loops, often finer than hand needle chain stitch.
- On the back: a simple line of short straight stitches, rather than loops.
- In the fills: solid areas built from rows of chain stitch following the shape, like the grain in wood, rather than long satin stitches.
- Compared with machine chain stitch: machine work repeats identically from motif to motif, while aari has small variations where the hand changed direction.
Fabrics and placements that suit aari
The hook makes only a tiny hole, so aari suits sheer and fine fabrics that would mark under a thicker needle: chiffon, georgette, organza and net. Our net and lace fabrics guide covers lining those. It also works well on cotton silk and raw silk. Fine trailing vines on sleeves, a scalloped neckline, an all-over jaal (lattice) on a dupatta and delicate outlines around sequin work are classic uses.
On thick or very textured fabrics such as velvet or heavy khaddar, the fine chain line can disappear, so a bolder stitch is often a better choice there.
Why chain stitch can unravel
The one weakness of any chain stitch is that it is a single continuous thread. If a loop breaks and you pull the loose end, a whole line can unzip. Good aari work is tied off firmly at the ends of each line, and a light backing helps on sheer fabric. If you ever spot a loose end, snip it close rather than pulling it, and have it secured before washing. Gentle hand washing or dry cleaning, depending on the sequins and beads, keeps the work intact. Our article on storing embroidered suits explains how to avoid snags in the wardrobe.
How to ask about aari work
Send a close-up photo of the aari look you like, ideally showing the fabric too, and describe where it should go. Whether a given technique is possible on your fabric and design is confirmed in your written quote, rather than promised before we have seen it. The custom embroidery page explains how embroidery is planned on an outfit we stitch or on your own garment, and the Canada fancy work page covers Canadian orders. Then start your quote.
Common questions
Is aari work done by hand or by machine?
True aari work is done by hand with a hooked needle on a frame. Machines can make a similar chain stitch, but the result is more uniform and repeats exactly from motif to motif.
What is the difference between aari and tambour embroidery?
They are the same basic method: a hooked needle pulling loops of thread through fabric stretched on a frame. Aari is the South Asian name, and tambour is the name used in Europe.
Why does my aari embroidery unravel when I pull a thread?
Chain stitch is made from one continuous thread, so a broken loop can run like a ladder. Never pull a loose end; trim it close and have the line secured before you wash the garment.
