Shortening a kameez without losing an embroidered border

What kind of border is it?

• A separate border or lace sewn on: the easiest case. It is unpicked, the kameez is shortened, and the border is sewn back on at the new hem.
• Embroidery worked into the kameez fabric: it cannot be unpicked, but the embroidered band can be cut away as a strip, the kameez shortened above it, and the strip joined back on. A fine seam shows above the border, and piping or lace can hide it.
• A printed border: handled the same way as embroidery in the fabric, cut off as a band and rejoined higher.
• A scalloped or cut-work edge: the shape is part of the fabric, so the band method is usually the only way to keep it.
• A border that continues up the side slits: it has to be moved and rejoined at the corners, which is more detailed work.

Other ways to keep the border

• Shortening at a waist seam: a kalidar, anarkali or peplum kameez with a seam at the waist or under the bust can be shortened from the top of the skirt, leaving the hem border untouched. The new top edge of the skirt is a little wider, so it is eased or gathered back onto the bodice. Our guide to kalidar and anarkali cuts explains how these are built.
• A tuck above the border: one or two horizontal tucks, stitched as a design feature, can take up a few centimetres without cutting. They work best on plain or small-print fabric.
• Reusing the border elsewhere: if you want a much shorter kurta, the hem border can go on the sleeves or the dupatta, and the new hem is finished simply. See restyling an old suit.

What to check first

• Side slits: shortening from the hem makes the slits shorter unless they are recut higher. Decide where you want them to start; our guide to side slits and hemlines has ideas.
• Hem shape: curved, high-low and asymmetric hems need the new line drawn to match.
• Hem width: an A-line or flared kameez is widest at the hem, so a border moved up is longer than the new hem needs. The extra is trimmed at a side seam, where a motif may be cut.
• Lining: a lined kameez needs the lining shortened too.
• Fabric: very fine chiffon and net show joins more than cotton or lawn.

Measuring, and asking a tailor

Put the kameez on, pin the hem where you want it, and measure from the pin to the current hem. Or note the new length measured from the highest point of the shoulder beside the neck. For the alteration itself, take the kameez to a local tailor who can see the border on the front and the reverse, look at the inside of the hem and slits, and pin the new length on you.

Moving a border is detailed work, so ask which method the tailor suggests for your kameez, and what it will cost, before anything is unpicked. If the sleeves need shortening too, our guide to altering sleeve length and width uses the same techniques. Altering existing garments is not one of our services, but if the kameez cannot be shortened well, or you would rather have one cut to your length from the start, we can make a new outfit to your measurements: see custom stitching or start a quote.