Altering sleeve length and width on a kameez or kurta

Shortening

• A plain sleeve: turned up to the new length and hemmed.
• A sleeve border or lace: a sewn-on border is unpicked and reattached at the new length. A border worked into the fabric is cut off as a band and joined back on, as explained in our guide to shortening without losing the border.
• A cuffed sleeve: the cuff is removed, the sleeve shortened, and the cuff set back on, usually with its original buttons.
• Full to three-quarter or elbow length: a popular change. The sleeve is narrower higher up, so a border moved up may need trimming at the seam.
• A bell or flared sleeve: shortening a flare narrows the opening, because the sleeve is widest at the bottom, so the flare looks smaller afterwards.

Lengthening

Lengthening only works as far as the hem allowance, which on ready-made kameez is often small. Beyond that, fabric has to be added.

• A cuff or band in matching or contrast fabric, which can look like a deliberate design choice.
• Lace or a border at the hem, which adds both length and a finish. Our piping and trims guide shows options.
• Fabric from the same suit: leftover trouser or dupatta fabric often makes the neatest band.

Narrowing and widening

Narrowing is usually simple: the sleeve is taken in along the underarm seam, all the way from the armhole to the hem or only in the lower part. A sleeve that is tight at the upper arm is harder.

• Letting out: possible only if there is seam allowance along the underarm seam, which is often narrow. Look inside before you ask.
• A slit at the hem: helps a tight lower sleeve go over the hand, and can look like a design detail.
• A panel or gusset: a strip along the underarm seam, in matching or contrast fabric, adds width at a tight upper arm.
• New sleeves: if spare fabric from the suit survives, the sleeves can sometimes be recut in a different shape. It is rare with ready-made clothes, though.
• Going sleeveless: removing the sleeves and finishing the armhole suits kurtas you plan to layer.
• Check the armhole: tight upper arms are often an armhole problem as much as a sleeve one; our armhole and shoulder guide explains the link.

Measuring, and asking a tailor

Put the kameez on and mark where you want the sleeve to end with a pin or a small piece of tape, then measure from the mark to the current hem. For width, measure round your upper arm and forearm, then measure across the sleeve at the same points, laid flat, and double it. Note where the sleeve feels tight with your arm bent as well as relaxed.

For the alteration itself, take the kameez and your notes to a local tailor who can see the sleeves on you and the inside of the underarm seam. Ask what is possible, including how any cuff or border will be handled, and what it will cost before anything is unpicked. Our guide to taking in a kameez covers the body of the kameez if that needs work too. Altering existing garments is not one of our services, but if the sleeves cannot be changed well, or you would rather have sleeves cut to your length and shape from the start, we can make a new outfit to your measurements: see custom stitching or start a quote.