Summer dresses with sleeves, made to measure

Sleeve shapes that let air in

The cooler sleeves all share one feature: fabric that hangs clear of the skin.

• Loose elbow sleeve. Straight and open at the hem, ending around the elbow. Air moves freely and it suits every fabric. See elbow sleeves.
• Flutter or bell sleeve. Widens toward the hem, so the cloth barely touches the arm. See bell sleeves.
• Full sleeve gathered at the wrist. Plenty of volume through the arm, closed with elastic or a narrow cuff. It covers to the wrist, yet the fabric floats instead of clinging.
• Sleeve cut in one with the body. A kimono or dolman shape has no armhole seam, so nothing is tight under the arm. It uses more fabric and suits soft cloth.

Fabric first, then lining only where needed

Fabric does most of the cooling. Fine cottons such as lawn and cambric, linen and viscose let air through and take up moisture. Sheer fabrics such as chiffon are light and floaty but usually need a layer beneath, so there the choice of lining matters as much as the outer cloth.

Lining is the hidden source of heat. A pale lawn dress may need one for opacity, but it does not need one everywhere:

• Line the body and skirt and leave the sleeves as a single layer.
• Ask for a cotton lining instead of a synthetic one.
• Or skip the sewn-in lining and wear a separate cotton slip.
• Choose a mid-tone colour or a print, which hides more than a pale plain and may need no lining at all.

A loose waist, and midi against maxi

A dress that hangs from the shoulders or from a yoke lets warm air escape at the hem every time you move. A seam drawn close to the waist stops that. If you like some shape, ask for a tie belt or a drawstring you can loosen instead of a fixed, close waist. Tiers and A-line skirts add movement without weight.

For length, a midi that ends on the calf leaves the ankles in the breeze and stays clear of dusty ground. A maxi covers more and, when it is loose and made in a breathable fabric, is not noticeably warmer; it simply needs more care on stairs. Our maxi dress guide covers the longer length, and non see-through fabrics shows how to test a cloth before you buy it.

Asking for one

Send a photo and your measurements through Send Your Design, with notes on the sleeve, lining and length. If you would like us to supply the cloth, the Fabric + Stitching page explains how the fabric is agreed.

One starting point among our own designs is the tiered maxi dress, a floor-length chiffon dress with full balloon sleeves gathered at the cuff. Three-quarter sleeves for summer and a lining are among the changes you can ask for on it.