Summer outfits for hot weather, from Houston to Rome

Fabrics that breathe

Fibre matters more than weight. A thin polyester can feel hotter than a slightly heavier cotton, because it does not absorb sweat or let it evaporate as readily.

• Lawn: fine, light cotton and the backbone of Pakistani summer collections. The first choice for humid heat. Our lawn guide covers shrinkage and sheerness.
• Voile and fine cotton: even airier than most lawn and lovely for loose kurtas, though pale shades usually need a light lining.
• Linen: cool, textured and quick to dry, which suits dry heat especially well. It creases, and most people accept that as part of its charm. See linen kurtas for summer.
• Cambric: a crisper, more opaque cotton that still breathes, good for work kurtas that need to stay neat all day.
• Viscose: soft, drapey and cool against the skin, though it can cling in high humidity and needs gentle washing.
• Chiffon and georgette: often polyester, so they breathe less than cotton. Keep them for dupattas and evening pieces rather than all-day wear.

Cuts and details that keep you cool

In real heat, a little ease is your friend. A kurta that skims rather than hugs lets air circulate, and a straight or gently A-line shape moves away from the body as you walk. Ask for a slightly relaxed fit through the bust and waist when you order; our guide to ease explains how much difference a few centimetres make.

• Sleeves: loose elbow or three-quarter sleeves shade the arms without trapping heat. Full sleeves in fine lawn or voile work well if you prefer your arms covered, and they protect against strong sun.
• Necklines: a slightly open round, V or boat neck lets heat escape; very high, close necklines feel warmer.
• Side slits: longer slits let the kameez move and let air in when you sit or walk.
• Trousers: palazzos, a classic shalwar or wide straight trousers in lawn are far cooler than slim cigarette pants.
• Lining: if a pale fabric needs lining, a half lining in fine cotton keeps coverage at the bodice without doubling the layers all the way down.

Colour, sun and humidity

Light and mid colours reflect more of the sun’s heat than dark ones, and prints are forgiving in humid weather: they hide creases and the odd damp patch far better than a plain fabric. Bright dyes fade quickly in strong sun, so dry your kurtas in the shade.

If you move between air-conditioned offices and the street, as so many people in Houston do, a light cotton dupatta or a thin cardigan handles the temperature swing. In Rome, the dupatta doubles as sun cover for your shoulders, and a wide-brimmed hat does the rest.

Ordering for summer

Pakistani lawn collections usually arrive early in the year, so it pays to buy then and ask for a stitching quote well before the heat arrives. Our lawn season guide explains the timing. If you have several summer suits, ask for them to be quoted as one order with one set of measurements; we confirm what to send, and how, before you post any fabric to us in Pakistan.

Start on the stitching quote form, tell us the climate you are dressing for, and choose “advise me” if you would like a suggestion on sleeves, lining or trouser style. Ordering from the USA or Italy? The USA and Italy pages explain how ordering works from there, and the unstitched suit stitching page covers the rest.