Fabrics and care · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read
Types of cotton fabric for suits and kurtas
Types of cotton fabric from lightest to heaviest: malmal, voile, lawn, cambric, poplin, latha, cotton satin, brushed cotton and khaddar, and what each is for.
InspirationNine cottons, lightest to heaviest
The cotton fabrics you are most likely to meet when buying a suit or kurta are, from lightest to heaviest: malmal, voile, lawn, cambric, poplin, latha, cotton satin, brushed cotton and khaddar. They are all the same fibre. What separates them is how fine the yarn is, how tightly it is woven and how the surface is finished. The order below is a guide, because weights overlap from one mill to the next.
- Malmal: the softest and most airy, and see-through. For dupattas, linings and loose summer kurtas. More in what malmal is.
- Voile: sheer and light like malmal but crisper, from tightly twisted yarn. For airy kurtas and dupattas.
- Lawn: fine, smooth and slightly crisp, the everyday summer suit fabric. See the lawn page.
- Cambric: denser and more opaque than lawn, with a neat, firm hand. For mild weather and work kurtas. See the cambric page.
- Poplin: smooth and crisp with a very faint crosswise rib. A shirt fabric, good for collars, shirt-style kurtas and dresses.
- Latha: a dense, smooth, plain cotton, usually white or a solid colour, that takes a sharp press. A traditional choice for shalwars and trousers.
- Cotton satin: woven for a smooth face and a soft sheen, heavier than cambric. For cool-season kameez and trousers. More in what cotton satin is.
- Brushed cotton: cotton whose surface has been raised into a soft nap, so it feels warm and slightly fuzzy. Some sources describe marina as a brushed cotton; see the marina page.
- Khaddar: thick, textured and matt, woven from coarse yarn. The winter cotton. See the khaddar page.
Why one fibre makes so many cloths
Three things change between the top of that list and the bottom. Yarn: fine for malmal and lawn, thick for khaddar. Density: how many threads are packed into each centimetre. Finish: brushing for warmth, a satin structure for sheen, a firm press for crispness. Our comparison of lawn, cotton and khaddar explains fibre, yarn and weave in more depth, and if a seller quotes a weight, our guide to GSM shows how to read it.
Names that are not weights
Some cotton names describe a texture or pattern that can be applied to several of the fabrics above. Our textured cotton guide covers the first two.
- Slub: uneven yarn that gives a streaky texture, as in slub lawn or slub khaddar.
- Dobby: a small woven geometric pattern.
- Jacquard: a larger woven pattern.
- Chambray and denim: cottons woven with coloured and white yarns together. Denim is the heavy twill version.
- Cotton net and cotton silk: market names for particular looks, often blends, so read the label.
Which cotton for which piece
- A kurta for real heat: lawn or voile, with malmal for the dupatta.
- A kurta for the office: cambric or poplin, which stay neat and opaque.
- Trousers and shalwars: cambric, latha or cotton satin. Lawn is fine for loose trousers but can strain in narrow ones.
- A cool-season suit: cotton satin or brushed cotton.
- A winter suit: khaddar.
- Lining: malmal or a fine lawn.
What every cotton has in common
Whatever the name, cotton absorbs moisture, breathes, creases and can shrink in its first wash, the looser weaves most of all. Pale shades of the lighter fabrics are see-through. And any of these names can be put on a blend, so the composition on the label is still worth reading. If the cloth has no label, the window test settles sheerness: hold a single layer up to daylight with your hand behind it.
Choosing with us
With Fabric + Stitching, you do not have to name a fabric. Tell us the season, the piece and how crisp or soft you want it, and we propose a fabric with photos and a description, agreed before cutting. If you have a particular cotton in mind, ask for it in your quote, and we confirm what is possible. Start a Fabric + Stitching quote.
Common questions
Which cotton fabric suits a kurti?
For hot weather, lawn or voile. For an everyday kurti that stays neat and is not see-through, cambric or poplin. For winter, khaddar or a brushed cotton.
Is poplin the same as cambric?
They are close. Both are smooth, crisp, plain-weave cottons of similar weight. Poplin has a faint crosswise rib from a slightly thicker crosswise yarn and is the classic shirt fabric; cambric is flatter and very even.
What is latha fabric?
Latha is a dense, smooth, plain-weave cotton, usually white or dyed a solid colour, known for holding a crisp press. It is widely used for shalwars and trousers.
