Styles and design · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read
What is a bar tack? Why slit tops and pockets need one
What is a bar tack? A short, dense block of zigzag stitches that locks a stress point. Where a kameez needs one, at slit tops, pockets and plackets, and how to ask.
InspirationThe definition
A bar tack, also written bartack, is a short, tight block of stitches sewn across a point that takes strain, so the seam or opening cannot rip any further. In factories it is made by a dedicated machine as a dense zigzag over a few straight stitches; on a home machine it is a narrow zigzag sewn with almost no forward movement; by hand it is a few long stitches laid side by side and covered with tight blanket stitches.
It is small, usually no longer than a fingernail, but it does a lot of work. Look at the pockets and belt loops of a pair of jeans and you will find several.
Why stress points need one
Wherever an opening ends or two pieces meet at a corner, the stitching at that exact point carries all the pull. Each time you sit, stride or reach into a pocket, that spot is stretched. Without reinforcement the last few stitches gradually work loose, the seam begins to open, and eventually the fabric itself can tear in a small L or V shape.
A bar tack spreads that load across a short band of fabric, so the strain no longer lands on one thread. It is one of those details nobody notices when it is there and everybody notices when it is not.
Where it belongs on a kameez and trousers
On South Asian clothes the classic weak point is the top of the side slit, but there are several others worth naming. Our pages on side slits, pockets in kurtas and kurta plackets cover those details in full.
- The top of each side slit (chaak) on a kameez or kurta
- Pocket openings in the side seams, and the top corners of patch pockets
- The bottom of a button placket
- The base of a neckline slit or keyhole opening
- The ends of a zip, and the top of any sleeve slit
- Belt loops, tie points and the drawstring opening of a shalwar
Bar tacks and other reinforcements
A bar tack is not the only way to protect a stress point. A small triangle or box of stitching does a similar job, an arrowhead tack (a neat triangular satin-stitched tack from traditional tailoring) is more decorative, and a small square of fabric or tape stitched inside the slit top adds strength without anything showing. Some kameez finish the slit top with a tiny embroidered motif that does the same work and looks deliberate.
Thread colour decides how visible it is. Matched to the fabric, a bar tack all but disappears; in a contrast colour it becomes a small design detail.
How to ask for it
Reinforcement is easy to request because it adds almost nothing to the look. In your order notes, write something like “please reinforce the tops of the side slits and the pocket corners”, and mention if you want the slits high or the outfit will see heavy daily wear. We confirm the details in the written quote for your custom stitching order before anything is cut. Ask for a quote and include the note with your design choices.
Common questions
Will a bar tack show on the outside?
Yes, it is a small visible block of stitching, usually in thread matched to the fabric so it blends in. On a printed fabric it is barely noticeable; in a contrast thread it becomes a small detail.
Can I add a bar tack at home?
On a garment you own, a few tight zigzag stitches with a sewing machine, or a hand-stitched bar covered with blanket stitches, can reinforce a slit top before it tears. Use matching thread and keep it short.
Is a bar tack the same as a backstitch?
No. A backstitch runs a few stitches back over the end of a seam to lock it. A bar tack is a separate dense block of stitches sewn across a point to take strain, and it is much stronger.
