Styles and design · 5 October 2026 · 4 min read
What is a high-low hem on a kurta?
A high low kurti hem is shorter at the front than at the back. How big the difference should be, the trousers that suit it and why borders rarely survive it.
InspirationShorter in front, longer behind
A high-low hem is one that is shorter at the front than at the back. On a kurta the front might end at mid-thigh or the knee while the back drops lower, with a curve or a slant joining the two along the sides. Shops also call it a tail cut or a dip hem, and some describe it simply as front short, back long.
The shapes it comes in
The name covers several hems. It is a close relative of the curved gol daman, and the hemlines guide shows where it sits among the other hem shapes.
- Curved high-low: the hem sweeps down from the front in a smooth arc. The softest and most common version.
- Tail cut: the back is rounded like a shirt tail, often with a shorter matching curve at the front and a notch at each side seam.
- Stepped: front and back are both straight, at two different levels, with an open slit between them.
- One-sided: the low point is shifted to one side instead of the centre back. Strictly this is an asymmetric hem, but it is often sold under the same name.
How much difference looks deliberate
A back that is only two or three centimetres longer than the front does not read as a design. It looks like a hem that was cut unevenly. As a rule of thumb, the drop needs to be at least a hand’s width, about ten centimetres, before the eye accepts it as intended. Somewhere between that and twice as much is comfortable for everyday kurtas. Larger drops, where the front sits on the thigh and the back reaches the calf, are dramatic and suit plain fabrics and occasions.
Give both lengths as measurements: the front from the shoulder to the front hem, and the back from the shoulder to the lowest point. “A bit longer at the back” means something different to everyone.
Trousers that suit it
The short front puts the trousers on show and the long back adds movement behind you, so the leg underneath should be slim and clean.
- Cigarette pants or straight trousers, for a tailored outline.
- A churidar, when the kurta is longer and dressier.
- Jeans, for a casual tail-cut kurti; see kurtas with jeans, skirts and blazers.
- Full shalwars and palazzos only with a short, gently curved kurta. Under a long tail there is too much fabric at the back of the leg.
Why borders rarely survive it
A printed or embroidered border is made in a straight line along the edge of the cloth. A straight hem uses it exactly as it comes. A high-low hem curves and changes level, and a straight band will not bend round a curve without puckering. The choices are to cut the border off and apply it again in shaped pieces, which shows joins and breaks the pattern, or to leave it off. That is why this hem is usually finished with a narrow turned edge, a facing, piping or a soft lace.
If your unstitched suit has a border you love, a straight hem is the kinder choice, and the border may still be used on the sleeves or trousers; see using borders from your pack.
One more check: with the front raised, the inside of the back panel is visible from the front as you walk. On a print with a pale reverse it shows, so a facing in a matching colour is worth asking about.
How to ask for one
High-low is not a named option on our quote form, so send a photo and treat it as a request. Give the front and back lengths, say whether the sides should curve or step, and mention any border on your fabric. The written quote confirms what is possible on your fabric and design. Start with custom stitching or the stitching quote form.
Common questions
Is a tail cut kurti the same as a high-low kurti?
A tail cut is one kind of high-low hem, shaped like a shirt tail with rounded front and back and a notch at the sides. All tail cuts are high-low, but a high-low hem can also be a single smooth curve or a step.
Does a high-low kurta give enough coverage?
The back covers as much as an ordinary kurta of that length, and the front covers less. If coverage at the front matters to you, set the front at the knee and let the back drop from there, and wear straight trousers underneath.
Can a high-low hem have side slits?
It can. Stepped versions always have an open side, and curved versions often have a short slit where front and back meet so the kurta sits flat over the hips. Say how high you want the opening.
