What is a keyhole neckline on a kameez?

Keyhole, slit or placket?

All three are openings at the neck, and they are easy to confuse in photos.

• Keyhole: joined at the top by its fastening and open below. When the button is done up you see a closed neckline with a small gap underneath.
• Slit: a straight cut running down from the neck edge and open at the top, as on a round neck with a slit. It lengthens the neck and has no fastening across it unless you add one.
• Placket: two overlapping strips with buttons, like the front of a shirt. Stronger and more covered than either, and the longest of the three. Our placket guide covers the types.

Front or back?

A back keyhole is mostly practical. A high, close neckline in woven fabric will not go over the head without some opening, and a keyhole at the back provides it without changing the front at all. It sits under your hair or dupatta and leaves an embroidered front undisturbed.

A front keyhole is a design feature. It shows a little skin below the collarbone, breaks up a plain high neck and gives a pretty button somewhere to sit. On a front keyhole the size decides how modest it is, so it deserves a measurement instead of a guess.

How big to make it

For a back keyhole that has to let the head through, the sum is simple: the distance around the neck edge plus both sides of the opening must be more than the distance around your head. On a close round neck that usually means an opening somewhere around 8 to 12 centimetres long. A wider neckline needs less, and some need none.

For a front keyhole worn for looks, smaller is safer. Around 3 to 5 centimetres long looks like a neat detail and stays modest. Much longer than that and it becomes the main feature of the neckline, which is fine if that is the plan. Keep it narrow as well, because a wide opening is more likely to gape when you lean forward.

• Edge finish: bias binding gives a slim, rounded edge. A facing lies flatter on thicker fabric.
• Fastening: a thread or fabric loop with a small button is the classic. A hook and eye is invisible, and ties add movement.
• Fabric: stable cottons and cambric hold the shape. Very soft or sheer fabric needs binding to stop the edges stretching.
• Embroidery: a heavily worked neckline may leave no room for a front keyhole, so the opening goes to the back.

Asking for a keyhole

The neckline list on our quote form covers the main shapes: round, V-neck, sweetheart, boat, square and band collar. A keyhole is an addition to one of those, so choose the neckline and then say in your notes whether you want the keyhole at the front or back, how long it should be in centimetres and how it should fasten. A photo helps. We confirm in the written quote what is possible on your fabric and design before cutting. You can read about custom stitching first or go straight to the quote form.