Styles and design · 8 October 2026 · 4 min read
What is a paperbag waist? Gathered high-waisted trousers
A paperbag waist is a high, gathered waistband with a frilled top edge, usually belted or tied. How it differs from elastic and drawstring waists.
InspirationThe name explains the shape
A paperbag waist is a high waistband that is gathered in, leaving a short frilled edge standing up above the point where it is drawn tight, like the scrunched top of a paper bag. It is usually held by a belt or a fabric tie, often with elastic inside as well, and it sits at or above the natural waist.
You see it most on trousers, shorts and skirts. The frill, sometimes called the heading, can be just a centimetre or two or a deeper ruffle of several centimetres.
How it is made
The top of the garment is cut wider than your waist and higher than an ordinary waistband. That extra fabric is then drawn in, in one of three ways.
- Elastic in a casing a little below the top edge, so the fabric above it flares into the frill. Easy to pull on.
- A tie or belt only, threaded through loops or a channel. The garment then needs a zip or button opening, and the belt does the gathering.
- Both together, elastic for comfort and a tie for the look. This is the most common version in shops.
Paperbag, elastic or drawstring waist
All three draw fullness into the waist, but they look and sit differently. A plain elasticated waist is usually flat at the top, with the gathers sitting under a neat band. A drawstring waist pulls the fabric in with a cord through a channel, and the top edge sits at the channel. A paperbag waist deliberately leaves fabric above the gathering, and that frill is the feature.
Because of the frill, a paperbag waist is meant to be seen. It works with tucked-in shirts, short tops, cropped jackets and peplum tops or short kurtis. Under a long kameez it simply disappears and adds bulk you cannot see, so a plain waist makes more sense there.
Who finds it comfortable
Many people like the paperbag waist because it flexes: the gathers give through the day, and a tie can be loosened after a meal. It defines the waist without a close, structured band, and the high rise sits above the hip bones. Others find that the gathered fabric adds visible volume around the middle. Neither view is right or wrong; it depends on what you like to feel and see.
Fabric decides a lot. Linen, cotton twill, crepe and other medium-weight cloth hold a frill that stands up neatly; see our linen guide. Very soft fabrics give a floppy frill, and thick wool adds bulk. The trouser fit guide explains rise, which matters with any high waist.
Ordering a paperbag waist
It is not one of the named trouser styles on our quote form, so treat it as a design to send with a photo. Choose the closest trouser style, then describe the waist: how deep the frill should be, elastic or tie or both, and whether you want a matching self-fabric belt. Give your waist, hip and rise measurements, and the trouser size guide shows where to take them.
It is a natural fit for a co-ord set with a short top. Send the details through Send Your Design or a design quote. Whether it suits your fabric, and how much cloth it needs, is confirmed in the written quote.
Common questions
Does a paperbag waist suit a long kurta?
Not really, because the kurta covers the frill, which is the whole point of the style. With a long top, a plain elasticated or drawstring waist is flatter and more comfortable.
Do paperbag trousers have pockets?
They often do, usually in the side seams, and sometimes slanted front pockets. Mention pockets when you describe the design so they are included in the quote.
Can a skirt have a paperbag waist?
Yes. Paperbag skirts are common, from knee length to midi, with the same frilled, gathered waist and a tie or belt.