Fit, measuring and alterations · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read
What is an underarm gusset, and do you need one?
An underarm gusset is a small panel set where the sleeve meets the side seam, adding reach without a loose body. What it does, when a kameez needs one, how to ask.
InspirationA small panel under the arm
An underarm gusset is a small piece of fabric, usually a diamond or a pair of triangles, sewn in where the sleeve seam meets the side seam. It adds extra length along the underside of the arm, so you can lift your arms without the whole kameez riding up and without the body needing to be cut loose. You see it only when you raise your arm, and on a well-made garment barely even then.
Gussets are an old technique. Clothes cut from rectangles of cloth, including many traditional kurtas and shirts, relied on a square gusset folded into the underarm to let the wearer move. Modern patterns often replace them with a shaped armhole and set-in sleeve, but the gusset is still the neatest answer for certain cuts.
What a gusset actually does
When you raise your arm, the distance from your waist to your wrist along the underside gets longer. A kameez without enough length there borrows it from the body: the hem lifts, the side seams pull and the armhole cuts in. A gusset supplies that length in the one spot that needs it, so the rest of the garment can stay close and tidy.
It also spreads strain. The underarm is where four seams meet, and a garment that is under constant pull there tends to wear through or split. A gusset takes the point of stress away from that corner.
When a kameez benefits from one
Most kameez with ordinary set-in sleeves do not need a gusset; a well-shaped armhole gives enough movement. It earns its place in a few situations:
- Sleeves cut in one with the body, as in a kimono or kaftan-style kameez, when you want the body closer than the usual loose shape.
- A fitted kameez in a fabric with no give, such as a crisp cotton, raw silk or jacquard, if you need to lift your arms often.
- A close sleeve with a high armhole, where you want a slim line but full reach.
- Workwear or everyday pieces you wear for reaching shelves, carrying bags or driving.
The trade-offs
A gusset is more work to cut and sew neatly, since its points have to meet the seams exactly. In a sheer fabric the extra seams show through, and in a bold print the gusset piece will interrupt the pattern under the arm. Some people choose a gusset in a matching plain or a softer fabric for comfort; that is a design choice worth mentioning. If the armhole problem is about shoulder width or armhole depth instead, a gusset will not solve it, and our guide to armhole and shoulder problems is the better place to start.
You may also have seen gussets mentioned in letting out a kameez, where a panel is added to an existing garment. Here we are talking about planning one into a new piece from the start, which looks far neater.
Asking for one on a new order
A gusset is not a standard choice on our form, so write it in your notes: for example “underarm gussets for arm movement, body fairly close”. A photo of a garment that has one helps, as does a line about why you want it. Send it through Send Your Design and we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design in the written quote; the agreed details then go into the design approval before cutting. Start your enquiry.
Common questions
Will a gusset show when my arms are down?
Hardly at all. With your arms by your sides it folds into the underarm. In a plain fabric it is almost invisible even when you lift your arm; in a print or a sheer it is easier to spot.
Is a gusset the same as a side panel?
No. A side panel runs down the side of the body, often to add flare or width at the hips. A gusset is a small piece placed only at the underarm to add movement for the arm.
