Which colours are coolest to wear in hot weather?

Why dark fabric warms up in the sun

Sunlight carries energy. A dark fabric absorbs more of it and turns it into heat at the surface of the cloth; a pale fabric bounces more of it away. Put your hand on a black car and a white car parked side by side in the sun and you feel the effect at once.

When that warm cloth sits against your skin, as in a fitted kameez or tight sleeves, the heat passes to you easily. That is why a close-fitting black top feels so much hotter in the midday sun than a white one.

Why black is not always hotter

Loose clothing changes the picture. If there is air moving between the fabric and your skin, much of the heat absorbed by a dark outer layer is carried away by the breeze before it reaches you. Researchers who studied loose robes worn in the desert found that black ones did not leave the wearer warmer than white ones, which helps explain why dark, flowing garments have long been worn in very hot places.

Colour also stops mattering much once you are out of direct sun. Indoors, in the shade or after sunset, a navy kurta and a white one feel about the same; the fabric and the fit decide your comfort.

What makes more difference than colour

If you are choosing or ordering clothes for heat, start with these and pick the colour last. Our summer outfits guide puts them together into complete outfits.

• Looseness: a kameez with some ease lets air move. See how loose a kameez should be.
• Fibre: cotton, lawn and linen take up sweat and dry; polyester often feels clammy.
• Weave: a thin, open weave breathes; a dense or coated fabric traps heat.
• Lining: a full lining adds a layer of warmth, so choose a light one, or line only where needed. Our article on lining for hot and cold climates explains the options.
• Sleeves and neckline: a little air at the neck and wrists helps more than you might expect.

The trade-offs of pale and dark

Pale lawn and voile can be see-through, especially in bright sun, so they often need a lining that cancels part of their cooling benefit. Darker and more strongly coloured fabrics generally block more of the sun’s UV than pale ones of the same weave. Sweat marks show most on mid-tones such as grey, light blue and pastel pink, and least on white, black and busy prints.

A sensible compromise for very hot days is a pale or mid-tone print on a light cotton, cut loose, which keeps you cool, hides sweat and needs no lining.

Ordering a summer outfit

With Fabric + Stitching you can tell us the colour, feel and weight you want, and we confirm the agreed fabric in your written quote. Mention the climate you live in and whether you want lining. Making takes 5 to 7 working days from approval and full payment, and shipping time is added, so order before the heat arrives. Start your quote here.