Zari or tilla turned black: can it be cleaned?

Why metallic thread darkens

Traditional zari is a fine metal strip or wire wound around a silk or cotton core. In real zari the metal is silver, often coated with a thin layer of gold; in cheaper imitation zari it is copper with a silver or gold coloured plating. Silver reacts with sulphur compounds in the air and turns black, and copper darkens or turns greenish as it oxidises. Old gota, a woven metallic ribbon, darkens for the same reasons.

Modern metallic thread is usually a metallised polyester film. It does not tarnish in the same way, but its coating can rub off, dull or peel, leaving a greyish or clear strand.

Some things speed up tarnishing: humid storage, sealed plastic bags, rubber bands, perfume sprayed onto the outfit, sweat and contact with wool, which contains sulphur. Our guide to tilla work and the comparison of zardozi, tilla and gota explain the threads themselves.

What gentle cleaning can do

Follow the care label, and test anything on a hidden area first. With that in mind, these steps are low risk:

• Lay the piece flat and brush the metallic work lightly with a soft, clean make-up or baby toothbrush, following the direction of the thread, to lift dust.
• Use a hairdryer on a cool setting, held well back, to blow out loose dust from raised areas.
• Air the garment flat in a dry room, away from direct sun, to clear any musty smell.

What it cannot do, and remedies to avoid

No home method restores plating that has worn away, revives film thread that has lost its coating, or turns copper back to gold. Deep black tarnish on real silver can sometimes be lessened by experts, but not reliably at home.

Advice online often suggests remedies meant for jewellery and cutlery. On embroidery they carry real risks:

• Metal polish and silver dip: strip plating, stain the fabric around the work and leave residue in the silk core.
• Lemon, vinegar and other acids: can bleach or change fabric dyes and weaken fibres.
• Toothpaste and baking soda pastes: abrasive, and very hard to rinse out of thread.
• Foil, salt and hot water baths: soak the whole garment, which risks dye bleeding, shrinking and further corrosion.

When to use a specialist

For an heirloom dupatta, a wedding gift or anything you would hate to lose, ask a dry cleaner who regularly handles embroidered South Asian clothing, or a textile conservator for older or valuable pieces. Ask what they plan to do and whether they will test first. Be prepared for the honest answer that the tarnish can be reduced but not removed.

After cleaning, store the piece wrapped in acid-free tissue or a cotton cloth, in a dry place, away from wool and plastic. Our guide to storing dupattas and embroidered suits covers this in full.

For a new outfit with a metallic look

If you want metallic embroidery on a new outfit and care is a worry, say so and describe the look you want, with a photo if you have one. Through our custom embroidery service, we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design in the written quote. Start a design quote here.